69' 22ft Tourist add 3rd roof vent hole

[linn_chris43]

In my 69' 22ft Avion Tourist, it only came with 2 14" vent holes, one forward and one rear. The forward hole is wired for an A/C unit, which mine currently has in place.
Has anyone ever cut a 3rd hole between the existing vents to relocate the A/C much like an Airstream?
It could help distribute the weight over the axle, for less tongue weight. As well as centralize the cold air to be more efficient and allow me to have 2 normal roof vents at opposite ends for more ambient light and ventilation.

My question is, if cut between the braces, what could I find in there? Wires, insulation...etc.. How hard would it be to fish a wire up there? What type of bracing is normally used between skins on an A/C supporting roof vent. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

[KYAvion]

I've never cut a hole in my Avion's roof or any former trailer for that matter, but I don't see a problem as long as you stay within the ribs as you mentioned. As far as running electric, I think it might be next to impossible with the interior skins attached. Aside from running into the ribs, if your trailer is spray foamed that creates another challenge. If you don't wanna remove the skins, perhaps you could run the wire through a nearby closet or cupboard, and then through a low profile raceway along the ceiling.

[linn_chris43]

I had heard Avion used spray foam, so that would be an issue, although much better insulating properties. A raceway is a good idea and already used on another part of the camper and it would only go to an upper cabinet, where I could wire easily. Just tossing the idea around for now. Thanks for the insight.

[Rostam]

In my 69' 22ft Avion Tourist, it only came with 2 14" vent holes, one forward and one rear. The forward hole is wired for an A/C unit, which mine currently has in place.
Has anyone ever cut a 3rd hole between the existing vents to relocate the A/C much like an Airstream?
It could help distribute the weight over the axle, for less tongue weight. As well as centralize the cold air to be more efficient and allow me to have 2 normal roof vents at opposite ends for more ambient light and ventilation.

My question is, if cut between the braces, what could I find in there? Wires, insulation...etc.. How hard would it be to fish a wire up there? What type of bracing is normally used between skins on an A/C supporting roof vent. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Howdy,

Just my opinion

I'd just leave the AC in its current place. Some extra tongue weight is good for stability of the trailer. Avions, unlike Airstreams, do not have super heavy tongue weight. It seems most Avion trailers have between 10% to 13% tongue weight, whereas Airstreams are in 15% to 20% range. Also, you need a schematic of trailer to avoid drilling a hole in the wrong place. I'm risk averse and IMO this enhancement is not worth the risk/effort.

Good luck!

[silverloaf]

In my 69' 22ft Avion Tourist, it only came with 2 14" vent holes, one forward and one rear. The forward hole is wired for an A/C unit, which mine currently has in place.
Has anyone ever cut a 3rd hole between the existing vents to relocate the A/C much like an Airstream?
It could help distribute the weight over the axle, for less tongue weight. As well as centralize the cold air to be more efficient and allow me to have 2 normal roof vents at opposite ends for more ambient light and ventilation.

My question is, if cut between the braces, what could I find in there? Wires, insulation...etc.. How hard would it be to fish a wire up there? What type of bracing is normally used between skins on an A/C supporting roof vent. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Our '88 30P has 3 roof ventilators and roof-mount A/C unit. One ventilator is in the bathroom, one in the bedroom and one in the living room. One ventilator is wired into the front lighting circuit, the other two into the rear lighting circuit. The a/c is on a separate circuit.

I replaced all 3 ventilators last fall. Each fan is surrounded by aluminum roof framing. The side framing is riveted into the main frame to create a box. The wiring runs through the spray foam, midway between the roof and ceiling panels.

The wiring also runs through holes in the main roof framing. Grommets are used to keep sharp metal from damaging the wires.

Dropping the ceiling would be your best option. Using a vibrating saw ( e.g. FEIN), cut away the spray foam where you want the fan. Rivet or screw the new side frame pieces that forms a box to the rough-in opening of the fan. Then cut the roof panel to the shape of the box.

A manual hole puncher (Greenlee, etc) is the best way is a nice way to cut holes in the metal framing. Use a vibrating saw to cut away the spray foam insulation to create a chase for the wiring. Low expansion closed-cell spray foam (in gun form) is commercially available to re-foam areas removed. Great Stuff is wild and not a good product to use for precision work.

Below are several pics related to replacing the fans. After the fans were installed, I ran into a issue with wire abrasion This necessitated dropping the ceiling slightly between the rear fans. Once done, I riveted the ceiling back into place.

IMG_1528.JPG (37.21 KiB) Viewed 1012 times

IMG_1818.JPG (30.66 KiB) Viewed 1012 times

[linn_chris43]

Great help guys, it seems leaving the relocation idea be is in my best interest. Once I researched more, with some of your insight, it would be too invasive. If I start pulling cabinets and skins, I'll start modifying and drag this project out. I have a tendency to go full boar and I have to resist with this one. Its just too clean for a stock camper. I'll have to suck it up and KISS (Keep it simple stupid). I have plenty of small restoration issues to handle otherwise.