Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Shell/Exterior Maintenance, Windows, Gaskets, Awnings, Vent Lids/Covers, Rockguards
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brian.christopher
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Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by brian.christopher »

I was looking st my rotted floor and frame today.. I’m thinking if it were an airstream I’d drop the belly pan and weld the frame. The avion looks like it’s stapled up to the wall behind the rub rail. Is it almost impossible to drop the pan?
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brian.christopher
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by brian.christopher »

Btw, it’s a 79 28j if that helps.
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KYAvion
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by KYAvion »

I'll have to look at mine again, but I don't think there are any sections of the bellypan that run continuously up to the wall. I know the section beneath the black tank is separate because I dropped it to install tank heaters, but if it had been a single continuous piece I would have taken a 1/16" cut off wheel to cut it.
KYAvion
1984 Avion 30R
Tarnished
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by Tarnished »

In the process of repairing my floor. On the curb side the curved portion of the pan was stapled. PIA removing them.
On the street side the corner wood was in VG condition so left it in place. No staples on the straight sections just the screws under the ext band.
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brian.christopher
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by brian.christopher »

I was thinking about rebuilding the floor then later dropping the pan to weld the frame rot. Maybe I’ll just grind and weld it from the inside with the floor out because of the staples.
silverloaf
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by silverloaf »

Brian.christopher -

I recently replaced the floor and some steel in the back 1/4 or so of our trailer; it contains the bathroom. I dropped about 1/2 of the belly pan to examine the structural integrity of the floor & frame up to the fresh water tank.

Like others have stated, the belly pan runs under the lower aluminum skin of the wall. Both were either riveted or screwed to the sub-frames (sometimes main-frame). The pan drops out leaving the wall skin intact. Once removed, I was able to see the extent of the damage and anything else that might need attention.

I believe you will get better results if you drop the belly pan. There is no way I could cut/fab/square up/weld large sections of the sub-frame without doing it. In some places, the pan was attached to x-members needing replacement.

I did remove both rounded corners and the dump valve compartment to get to some rotted steel. Most of the staples holding them to the floor can be worked out or cut. To re-install, I slipped the edges under the upper skin and used a few small aluminum trim nails to secure both to the edge of the floor. Once the belt line carrier is installed, It provides additional anchorage of the skins to the floor and covers the seam.
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Silverloaf (Bob)
Dawsonville, GA
1988 30P
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brian.christopher
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by brian.christopher »

Thanks silver loaf. I thought I could have gotten it from the top but it’ll be way easier from underneath. Especially if I can raise it so I’m not working on my back.
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brian.christopher
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by brian.christopher »

Are there a ton of rivets holding the pan to the frame underneath?
Rostam
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by Rostam »

silverloaf wrote: Wed Mar 28, 2018 11:57 am Brian.christopher -

I recently replaced the floor and some steel in the back 1/4 or so of our trailer; it contains the bathroom. I dropped about 1/2 of the belly pan to examine the structural integrity of the floor & frame up to the fresh water tank.

Like others have stated, the belly pan runs under the lower aluminum skin of the wall. Both were either riveted or screwed to the sub-frames (sometimes main-frame). The pan drops out leaving the wall skin intact. Once removed, I was able to see the extent of the damage and anything else that might need attention.

I believe you will get better results if you drop the belly pan. There is no way I could cut/fab/square up/weld large sections of the sub-frame without doing it. In some places, the pan was attached to x-members needing replacement.

I did remove both rounded corners and the dump valve compartment to get to some rotted steel. Most of the staples holding them to the floor can be worked out or cut. To re-install, I slipped the edges under the upper skin and used a few small aluminum trim nails to secure both to the edge of the floor. Once the belt line carrier is installed, It provides additional anchorage of the skins to the floor and covers the seam.
Just curious, how did you safely raise your trailer to work underneath it? Thanks
1978 Avion 26-H
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Razorback
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Re: Is dropping the belly pan an option?

Post by Razorback »

Look here and you will see how I raised and supported ours while I was replacing the brakes. Just double it if you want the entire Avion supported.

https://aviontrailers.net/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=54

********** DO NOT USE CONCRETE BLOCKS..... they can crush at a moment’s notice and squash YOU in the process!!!********
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1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
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