Bathroom Redesign for 90' 30P

[pbsled]

Thank you for the feedback, which helps a lot to keep me motivated. 5 weeks till our planned shake down trip and things keep moving a long, but all the work with electrical and the counter top slowed me down a bit. It is still an attainable goal I think, but it’s going to be close.

I started priming the walls that get paint today, which is a good sign. I have all the electrical done except for hot water heater, pump and rear backup light relay. Counter top is ready for the formica that I will try and cut tomorrow.

[pbsled]

I did a couple coats of primer and paint (color) on the walls today that need to be done before the formica, which distracted me into putting some siding on the wardrobe. I went ahead and glued up the interior FRP sides for the wardrobe and installed the Dumawall tiles on the back side of the wardrobe. I cannot praise those wall tiles enough, they are easy to cut, sand easily, and are light. Besides being waterproof, they do make installation easy because there is a tab big enough to run regular staples into them, making installation much easier because external bracing is not really required. I will put on the wardrobe face after all this dries.

[pbsled]

Little bit of work on the wardrobe face. I changed adhesive from PLX to LocTite Powergrab HD. It seems to hold better to the PVC tile board for the veneer process.

[pbsled]

32 days till our planned trip. I have lots still to do, but progress is steady. I think its still a doable goal.

As you can see I have the plumbing done on the end user side with drains all hooked up with no leaks on the first round of testing. Overall the design has worked out pretty well and it all gravity drains for winterizing to the city box area with some external hoses I will attach for the purpose.

I was able to fit in and glue the formica scrap we used up front for the dining table, with only a minor adjustment on the taper around on the wardrobe side and no seams. I think it matches the style we are looking for well, and I need to order my fluted aluminum face trim this week I think. However, due to the time crunch I am starting to omit things till next Spring, such as the drawer set for under the sink. I will just make the removable panels for the lower side of the cabinets and not worry about that extra storage for now.

I did some final destructive testing for various glue and material in prep for the big effort on making the shower surround, which is my next big step. The PLX is the best for FRP to PolyCarbonite, or FRP to fiberglass, which is what the surround will be using. I may start on the surround this week after final round of leak and flow tests before I button up that partition wall.

[pbsled]

I took a stab at starting the shower surround backing today. The overlap joints with the shower pan worked out well and are sealed with silicone. I switched from self tapping screws to rivets that were easier to get tight. Surface will be traditional FRP panels.

[Razorback]

Is that a clear enclosure?

[pbsled]

The backing board is clear, but white FRP will be glued on top of it. The FRP is so flimsy that I couldn’t figure out a way to put it up as the only layer, but I need the FRP as the finish surface to make the bend on the upper side when the wall turns into the ceiling.

[Razorback]

Thx for the details..... that makes sense.

Ever onward!

[pbsled]

Moving along with shower wall backboard. The LocTite foam (white stuff) has been great to provide some strength to the wall - especially the corners. Transition area to OEM fiberglass has temporary braces to help with keeping that plane straight with the outer wall, but they will come off once it all dries overnight. The plastic is honestly faster and easier to work with than plywood, but certainly more expensive.

[pbsled]

The last major structural item to build is the bulkhead wall that will form the forward shower wall. The outboard wall is now done and the fiberglass filler helped smooth out the transition well enough. I think using 1/4 plywood btw and some steam on laminating strips is now the best method for lining the curved wall. I found this much easier to keep straight and plumb.

I am building an air box at the base of the wall to attach the heating duct. If all goes well I will have an airtight chamber under the shower pan that will be the pass trough for the heating air that will exit via a register under the sink. I thought about having a vent by the door, but would rather see if I can achieve some heating effect under the shower pan and also get some heat around the back chase along the wall to keep plumbing warm. I might get some FRP up tomorrow. I only have about 2 1/2” of room on this wall and making a turn with ducting was not possible.