Upgrading 12v and 120v panels

[KYAvion]

BTW, these are the connectors I’ll be using inside a junction box just on the other side of the compartment for the 50amp power cord..... https://www.jacksonelectricsupply.com/M ... /97017.htm

[Markinalaska]

Looks good. I had to open up the cabinet quite a bit for my install. I decided to try out a Boondocker converter and I have to say that so far I think it is quieter than the Progressive Dynamics converter I had in my previous trailer. I got it here in case you’re interested...

http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker ... c_154.html

I installed the converter in the open space behind the panels. There’s seems to plenty of room and enough airflow.

I also bought my 50 amp Progressive Dynamics panel from Bestconverter.com. They’ve also got separate 12v panels if anyone’s interested.

Those 50 amp cords are a bear aren’t they? Did you enlarge your electrical compartment that is accessed from the outside to make room for storing it?

I haven’t modified that yet as I’m currently using the power cord and will be for the foreseeable future. So I have no need to store it. Heck I don’t have any tires , hubs, or brakes on the trailer so I’m not going anywhere . I almost have the curbside suspension completely removed. I’m in the process of getting new parts for that. I already have the hubs, brakes and seals on hand to install once the suspension is finished. I bought all Dexter parts with Timken bearings and National seals. I’m trying to use all made in America parts whenever possible.

[Razorback]

Can you describe how you got the 50A input cable from the exterior TO the new panel?

[KYAvion]

I can take some pictures in a few weeks when I’m at my camper, but basically I installed a large junction box inside the trailer on the other side of the water/electrical storage compartment, and I fixed a 50 amp male pigtail with a quality Hubbell connector that feeds directly into the storage compartment. A 50 amp cord is a bit to handle, so it’s nice being able to quickly stow the cord inside the trailer when traveling.

The 50 amp pigtail attaches to copper 6/3 cable via Polaris style connectors inside the large junction box. The 6/3 cable then goes under the bed and into the closet across the hall where the 50 amp panel is. Attached is a pic of a shoe rest built into the foot of the bed, which also serves as a raceway for the 6/3 cable and other wiring underneath.

[KYAvion]

Below is a pic of Polaris style connectors, which is basically an insulated split bolt. You wouldn’t have to use these, but I just like how easy they are to install in cramped spaces with no need for taping, etc.

Electrical supply houses carry this Morris brand, which I’ve used several times and have been pleased with them.

[Razorback]

Thank you for that. I had forgotten about your re-do of the bed in your Avion. I went back and found your posts and pictures of that. With that done, it makes it easy to get the input power from the road-side to the curb-side where the power center is. Maybe this winter I need to work on our rear bedroom 34W… it is still the original config.

[KYAvion]

Did you happen to see where I sealed up everything that has access to the exterior with foam board? The vertical panels are insulated on the inside, so that’s not visible in the pic. If you do much winter camping, I think sealing everything up is worth the effort.

[Razorback]

Yes, I either read it, or maybe saw it?

We used to do more cold-weather camping, but not since 2020 when we started going to Baton Rouge for most of my vacation time off.

When I re-do the bed in our 34W, I will definitely use your suggestions…. I won’t be working ALL of the rest of my life…. I hope.

[silverloaf]

One thing that comes to mind is the potential build-up of condensation during winter months. In my experience, foam board can be a 2-edged sword. Any thoughts or concerns about this?

[KYAvion]

Silverloaf— I get what you’re saying about the potential for condensation with foam board when the thickness of the foam isn’t sufficient to mitigate the transfer of cold to warm. In this case the 1” foam certainly isn’t much, so I left an air gap by recessing the foam board a little. The foam board is sealed with silicone along all edges, but the wood panels on top aren’t sealed along the perimeter with anything. So there may be some ventilation, although not a lot. I haven’t experienced any problems with condensation thus far. Something else that may help is that the subfloor of the trailer and the walls are of course insulated with foam, so the air against the cold side of the foam board isn’t an extreme cold to begin with.