Patching subfloor and Systems Check:Please help(New owners)

[Johnatron]

Hello,
We towed the mothership home last week, 1/9/19, and didn’t waste time getting to work.
We’re in the process of gutting and cleaning, and I’m currently in the process of removing patches of subfloor. I’ve assessed the rear hatch area and the main door, not too bad. I’ll attach pics ASAP. The front area(from main door to the very front, on the other hand) I haven’t gotten into yet. I peeked underneath between the belly pan and frame, and from what I can tell, the bottom layer of plywood is black in some areas. The floors feel solid, but I’m curious, so what ya say? Cut open a section to examine?

I’ve read through a bunch of the topics here about patching the floor, and from what I gather, I should cut out the top plywood, place 1-1/2” blocking between wall and frame, remove the foam, inspect the bottom plywood. If warrants replacement, then replace with pre-coated plywood. Por15 the frame. Replace 2x2 crossmembers as needed. Install foam. Install top plywood. Anything I’m missing or inaccurate about?
As I love multi-tasking, I’m looking to do a systems check with some fresh LPG and a generator. Also, I’m working on it in a storage yard, to which there is no sewer hookup. How should I go about testing the plumbing? Run clean water through the sinks, shower, and toilet, drain into a bucket, then hope for the best expect the worst kinda deal? Help please!? Also, I have a Duromax 4850 hybrid generator with a 30amp plug in. I gotta get the 3prong to 4prong adapter, but I’m excited and nervous to plug this beast in. The previous owner said ALL systems checked out, but it lost power in a storm last year, and hasn’t been hooked up since. Any words of wisdom here? Please and thank you!
Johnatron

[RISK]

Hello,
We towed the mothership home last week, 1/9/19, and didn’t waste time getting to work.
We’re in the process of gutting and cleaning, and I’m currently in the process of removing patches of subfloor. I’ve assessed the rear hatch area and the main door, not too bad. I’ll attach pics ASAP. The front area(from main door to the very front, on the other hand) I haven’t gotten into yet. I peeked underneath between the belly pan and frame, and from what I can tell, the bottom layer of plywood is black in some areas. The floors feel solid, but I’m curious, so what ya say? Cut open a section to examine?

I’ve read through a bunch of the topics here about patching the floor, and from what I gather, I should cut out the top plywood, place 1-1/2” blocking between wall and frame, remove the foam, inspect the bottom plywood. If warrants replacement, then replace with pre-coated plywood. Por15 the frame. Replace 2x2 crossmembers as needed. Install foam. Install top plywood. Anything I’m missing or inaccurate about?
As I love multi-tasking, I’m looking to do a systems check with some fresh LPG and a generator. Also, I’m working on it in a storage yard, to which there is no sewer hookup. How should I go about testing the plumbing? Run clean water through the sinks, shower, and toilet, drain into a bucket, then hope for the best expect the worst kinda deal? Help please!? Also, I have a Duromax 4850 hybrid generator with a 30amp plug in. I gotta get the 3prong to 4prong adapter, but I’m excited and nervous to plug this beast in. The previous owner said ALL systems checked out, but it lost power in a storm last year, and hasn’t been hooked up since. Any words of wisdom here? Please and thank you!
Johnatron

You seem pretty on point with the subfloor order of events, but prior to cutting anything, you may want to get a moisture meter and check suspect areas. An awl works as well, you'll know if it's rotten pretty quick.

As for the plumbing... that could be a literal sh!t show.
If it were me, and I have access to a water source, I'd gently check the plumbing and integrity of the system and dump at the closest campground.

- de-winterize the system (do you have the manual?)
- screw on a shut off on the end of the hose then onto your trailers water intake (not the fresh water tank). this step is good so you can shut the water off at the trailer quickly instead of running to wherever if things start leaking. Also, if you don't have a flow restricter, you should put one on.
- slowly open the shutoff at the trailer, don't open fully just in case.
- go inside and check every plumbing connection you can find, maybe map these out first. if you have copper and not PEX, have some rags handy.
- then check all faucets and toilet.
You should put some tank treatment in all drains and toilet before this exercise.

If all is as it should be, water isn't pouring out of the bottom of the trailer, then try the H20 heater.

When checking the furnace, leave plenty of windows open in case of co2 buildup. You'll need 12v for the furnace and likely the fridge. As for the power not working, all I can suggest is to check every fuse and breaker.

Feel free to call me 512-294-6550 as I'm just kind of tooling around today...

Ian

[silverloaf]

I have a Duromax 4850 hybrid generator with a 30amp plug in. I gotta get the 3prong to 4prong adapter, but I’m excited and nervous to plug this beast in.
Johnatron

Johnatron,

Are you certain the generator plug is 110v-30a and not 220v-30a? If it's 220v and you hook it up, you can kiss your trailer's electrical system good-bye.

[Johnatron]

Ian,
Thank you for the pointers. I checked the plumbing today, the prognosis is good. Small leak from the pex fitting under the bathroom sink, and everything else is working as it should. I had to run 300’ of garden hose to the nearest spigot, so you’re recommendation of connecting a shutoff valve saved me from running like madman. Still need to check the water heater. The tank treatments are in place. I’ll hit the dump station and be looking into the electrical tomorrow. I do have the manual, and an impressive stack of paperwork the PO left behind with it. I’ll post images of them when I get some time. Your advice and contact is highly appreciated, I’ll holler at ya soon.

Tron

Silverloaf,

Thank you for the inquiry. The generator is capable of supplying 110v-30amps through the 4prong. It’s an interesting device I must say. With the flip of a switch, I can run the RV or my plasma cutter. I haven’t checked the electrical yet, but I should be able to tomorrow. I’ll post back with my findings.

Tron

[silverloaf]

When checking the furnace, leave plenty of windows open in case of co2 buildup. You'll need 12v for the furnace and likely the fridge. As for the power not working, all I can suggest is to check every fuse and breaker.

Ian

Ian,

I presume you meant CO (carbon monoxide), not CO2 (carbon dioxide)?

[RISK]

I never was that great at math...

[Johnatron]

Well...good news! The electrical system checks out. This generator powers the camper very well. I’m pretty impressed. $300 delivered. I’d recommend one if you’re in the market.

Fridge was getting cold.

A/C turns on(but the motor is stuck). I’m considering installing a mini-split A/C. Any advice there?

All outlets are putting out 118v.

Diagnostic/Information center is alive.
Still need to figure exactly how that operates.

Need a new battery to run diagnostics for 12v boondocking.

There is a burnt spot on the converter PCB(see pic). Need to look into that one. I’d like to pre-install wiring for a solar set-up. Any advice on that one?

Need to test the water heater and water pump.

Plumbing checks out. One small leak under the bath sink, but I remedied that with a flex hose.

LPG system checks out. Had the CO detector ready, and my bottle of soapy water on hand. Stove, and furnace are firing up.


Still need to do some flooring, but I also need to start on the roof. Had supplies arrive last week.

Tron

[Erehtuo]

Hope you made some progress on your checks since the last post.

I installed a mr cool diy mini split in my garage and it's been pretty nice. I think it would certainly do well with the area of a trailer. You'd have to mount the condenser somewhere though. I've seen it done in some threads but I wouldn't know where to mount either the condenser or the interior unit in the trailer.

[Johnatron]

Hi,

Yes, thank you. I’ve been steady working on the Avion. Floor repair by the door is almost done. Getting ready to fix the bathroom floor. Replaced the rooftop A/C with a vent. Cleaned and taped the seams on the roof. Getting ready to coat the roof.

For the mini-split, I’m considering a 110v Pioneer 12k btu unit. I’m planning to build a 4-seasons room addition in the future, hence the 12k btu unit. Not sure if that’ll be too much for the Avion in the meantime. Having never installed a new A/C system before(just replacement/maintenance parts) I understand that installing a system appropriately rated for a specific amount of square footage is imperative. Looking at installing the condenser on the rear bumper. Air handler somewhere in the restroom. In addition, I’m tossing around the idea of running ductwork through a center, ceiling-mounted raceway. There’s a blog about renovating an Avion somewhere on the web that inspired me to put in the raceway. Little at a time, steady as she goes!

[Salty]

I think the restoration with the overhead chase you refer to is this one:
https://medium.com/@baileyeubanks/1988- ... 4530731b5d
I was initially inspired to do this as well, but when you read on, you'll discover that the gross vehicle weight of this trailer ballooned to 12.5K!
While it looks great, for me, I wasn't willing to give up the overhead space - Hell, I keep hitting my head going in and out the door!
Additionally, by description, this trailer was in dire straits physically. It could very well be that the wiring was completely shot and needed replacement. Since running new wire in the old wire runs is not easily done - the trailer is constructed in this manner: frame assembled, floor put in, outer shell installed, wire run against the out shell, spray foam applied over wire - you can see how this affected the wiring in this restoration and the need for an overhead chase.
I'll give you props for good taste though