converter replacement time...

[RISK]

Hey gang,

I've got some time before the next trip and think I'm going to tackle replacing my original converter with a new Progressive Dynamics PD9260 60amp converter with charge wizard (I actually bought this a couple years ago for the Airstream before I realized how deep of a pit it really is) and wondering if anyone has any tips...

I've read all the threads here I can find and some on the Air site, but nothing is as step by step as I'd like.

I have the side bath model with the existing converter in the cabinet next to the toilet, it's pretty tight in there and I'll probably have to remove the door itself as the newer toilet prohibits full opening of the cabinet door.

Read Gary Potters thread, which was helpful, just wondering what may come before the final wiring stage.

Thanks in advance,
Ian

[KYAvion]

I’ve got a new converter too that I haven’t installed yet, but when I checked out the existing setup it didn’t look too bad to just swap the converter. Aside from running the 12v positive and negative wires to the converter, I’ll probably run a new copper wire bonded to the frame from the converter. Also, a new 110v outlet will need to be wired up to power the converter. For airflow, I was thinking a might install a small vent in the wall section to the right of the cabinet that houses the panel. This may not be necessary, but there appears to be a good spot for a passive vent in my 30R.

[RISK]

I’ve got a new converter too that I haven’t installed yet, but when I checked out the existing setup it didn’t look too bad. Aside from running the 12v positive and negative to the converter, I’ll probably run a new copper wire bonded to the frame from the converter. Also, a new 110v outlet will need to be wired up to power the converter.

Good info, thanks. I guess I’m just wondering about the guts and stuff of the old one. I figure once I get in there I’ll pretty much figure it out. I will do a little tutorial as this seems to be a void of information for how to.

Ian

[KYAvion]

Was just digging through some notes I had written to myself for when I install the new converter...

Existing blue and red wire (positive) - need 4 feet of minimum 8 AWG stranded to run to converter and wire clamp/connector; run largest gauge new converter will accommodate.

Existing white wire (negative) - same as above. Check converter for largest size possible.

Ground for bonding to chassis- need 8 gauge at 8 feet to run to exterior storage compartment. Verify 8 gauge per converter manual.

Drill bit and plastic grommet or romex clamp for 110v from panel to converter.


Now 4 ft of wire for the positive and negative runs is obviously way more than what’s necessary, but better to have extra than not enough. As far as the new wire to bond the converter to the chassis, the existing stranded copper may be fine. I just can’t tell where the existing bond wire goes. So it’d be easy to go ahead and run a new chassis bond wire via the nearby exterior compartment, so I thought I’d go ahead and do it to be on the safe side. If you do this too, just be sure to use a grinder and clean up the frame first where you intend to attach the new copper.

[RISK]

This is great, thanks!

I’ll need to check what gauge the main wire run is, which is fairly long considering my batts are on the tongue and the converter is in the bathroom (which seems just weird to me, not just the wettest place but so far away). As for the ground, I’ll probably just clean and re-ground what is there as from what I can tell the main ground is right under the batteries behind the the tongue under the front of the coach. Unless there is another ground I have missed...

Ian

[KYAvion]

Is your trailer a 25H? Mine is a 30R, and like you, the converter is a long way from the batteries—below the wardrobe cabinet across from the center bath. The wire size in my trailer from the batteries to the converter is 8AWG, which is just adequate for the 45 amp converter.

[RISK]

Mine is the 28M. The converter is the bath (center) in the cabinet next to the pooper.
My new converter is sized for to 2awg... so that’s good.

[KYAvion]

You plan on running new wire from the batteries to the converter?

[RISK]

I don’t think so. My guess is it would take a fair bit of surgery to do so. If my guess is wrong and they are easily accessible then I will. From the looks of it at a cursory glance, they appear to travel through the wall along the street side. Again, it seems like a long run but it’s been working like it is for 40 years so...

Do you? If so, how?

I may actually tackle this today as it is a clear day in the upper 60’s. Or try to anyway...

[KYAvion]

Yes, definitely not easily accessible. One option might be if your cabinets run along the same wall as the converter, or even running under the floor via the exterior compartments. I was just asking since your upgrading the size of your converter to 60 amps.