converter replacement time...

RISK
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Location: Sunset Valley, TX

Re: converter replacement time...

Post by RISK »

That’s awesome and encouraging.

While I am considered to be pretty darn handy, I start going cross eyed when it comes to electronics so bare with me here...

Earlier in this thread we discussed having to run a thicker gauge wire if I were to install the 60 amp, I thought I’d have to run those from/to the batteries which is more than half the coach away. If I read your post right, I just need to run the new wires to the breaker panel? If that’s the case, I may revisit this project sooner than later. I like the install you did and my plan was to do something similar and keep everything in the same spot.

Unless I’m wrong...

Ian
1978 26M
1964 SilverStreak Sabre
1977 Airstream Sovereign (in a million pieces)
RISK
Posts: 346
Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2017 10:50 am
Location: Sunset Valley, TX

Re: converter replacement time...

Post by RISK »

Doh!

I should have re-read the thread before responding,
You do say I need to run a new set of wires to the batteries. I’m back to putting this on hold...
1978 26M
1964 SilverStreak Sabre
1977 Airstream Sovereign (in a million pieces)
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KYAvion
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Re: converter replacement time...

Post by KYAvion »

Now I don’t know for sure that you’d need to upsize your wiring. In my 30R the existing wire is 8 AWG, so I just wasn’t comfortable going beyond 45 amps for the converter in mine since it sits so far from the batteries.

The notion of upsizing the wiring sounds like a pain, especially if the 12v shut off in the panel up front is going to be used. Doable, but a hassle for sure.
KYAvion
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Re: converter replacement time...

Post by Salty »

A few comments and some random thoughts.
Unless you know for certain you're going to pull more than 40 - 45 Amps from the battery, then up sizing the wire gauge from/to the battery is not necessary. Just because you have a converter capable of producing/supplying 60 amps doesn't mean you're always/ever going to use all 60 amps from the converter and you're not going to push 60 amps at the battery to charge it.
To that end:
Keep the 40 Amp fuse in place at the battery. leave the 8 AWG intact and in place.
Do yourself a favor - grab a clamp on ammeter and start measuring the individual current draws on the positive lines attached at the converter - and don't forget any 8 AWG red wires that may (probably) pop out behind the command center. Add them up and determine your total 12VDC current draw. This is useful information. You may discover you're well under 45 amps. Then, should you install something new on the 12 volt system, you will know how much current is available.
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2000 Ford F250
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KYAvion
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Re: converter replacement time...

Post by KYAvion »

I don’t want to go in circles on this topic, but just trying to understand....at a specified distance between converter and batteries, under what condition would you say it is advisable to increase the wire size between the converter and the batteries?
KYAvion
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Re: converter replacement time...

Post by Salty »

The answer to your question is easy, but I'm not sure it is the answer you are looking for and it may SEEM hard to follow.
so, to restate the question; at a specified distance between converter and batteries, under what condition would you say it is advisable to increase the wire size between the converter and the batteries?
Answer: when the load current exceeds one or more of the following criteria:
1) when the load current increases to a point where the Voltage drop exceeds:
A. 3% of source voltage
B. 10% of source voltage
These two are for safe operation of equipment

2) When the load current exceeds maximum safe current carrying capacity for a prolonged period of time. The result of this is the generation of heat. If this over current condition occurs for a long enough duration, or is repeated frequently, the insulation melts.
This is the fire and electrical shock failure.

Keep in mind, your converter is not supplying appreciable current to the battery, rather, when you are on battery power, the battery is supplying current to the converter[where it is distributed to the balance of the trailer.]
1987 34V
2000 Ford F250
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
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KYAvion
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Re: converter replacement time...

Post by KYAvion »

So for most people with only a couple batteries, it sounds like the factory wire size wouldn’t be an issue and upgrading converter size is a not a problem. However, it would be nice if converter manufacturers published the amps that converters pushed while charging the batteries.
KYAvion
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RISK
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Re: converter replacement time...

Post by RISK »

Now I am even more confused...

So I can install a 60 amp converter to replace what I am assuming is a 45 amp converter without increasing the wire size to the batteries?

My trailer has a 30amp service, since I would only plug in to a 15 or 30 amp and my battery bank (2) isn’t going to get bigger, I should be fine... right?

Seems like the 60amp converter just gives me more headroom.

Thanks for being patient with me...

Ian
1978 26M
1964 SilverStreak Sabre
1977 Airstream Sovereign (in a million pieces)
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Re: converter replacement time...

Post by Salty »

PM sent
1987 34V
2000 Ford F250
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
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Re: converter replacement time...

Post by Salty »

Sounds like you're confusing yourself.
RISK wrote: Sat Feb 02, 2019 9:51 am My trailer has a 30amp service, since I would only plug in to a 15 or 30 amp
The AC landline capacity has nothing to do with the DC output.
Based on what I'm seeing here , my recommendation would be to take it to a professional.
1987 34V
2000 Ford F250
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
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