AVION Travel Trailers

Thanks for the added information. I have experience in both 12v and 110/220v. But it’s easy to have a senior moment when both are found in the same “building”.
Thinking back, I do recall the ground for my taillight assys being bonded to the skin.
I’ll also do the google search you mentioned.

Yes, it is easy to have a senior moment if both are in the same building, even if you’re not a senior! As I said, my prior trailer did not have 12v common wires going to a bus bar. When I first got my Avion and I was exploring around, I pulled out a drawer that revealed several white wires attached to a bus bar bonded to the trailer skin. My first thought was *********, what in the world are all these 110v neutral wires bonded to the trailer skin for!!!!

So something I’ve wondered....what is the primary benefit of having common wires in a 12v system in a trailer with aluminum skins? I get it in an ordinary trailer, but in our case why not just bond everything to the skin? It sure would make things like that switch assembly much easier to install because there’s be fewer wires crammed in there.

KYAvion wrote: ↑Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:54 am So something I’ve wondered....what is the primary benefit of having common wires in a 12v system in a trailer with aluminum skins? I get it in an ordinary trailer, but in our case why not just bond everything to the skin? It sure would make things like that switch assembly much easier to install because there’s be fewer wires crammed in there.

Isolation from poor campsite wiring with the neutral and ground reversed, or worse.
Less resistance over time related to oxidation on the return path.
Elimination of ground loops

Just what comes to mind at the moment

Can see what you mean on the resistance aspect. At least potentially.

Not following on the effect of campsite wiring. How would this affect the 12v system?

Well...I switched the polarity of the wires from the ceiling light to the fridge. It blew the fuse. Something in its path spiked both wires to the shell.

I tried snaking some new wires behind the stairs and up through the floor. No go.... too much foam in the wall and no way to hog it out.

As a last resort, I'm locating a separate switch on the side wall of the fridge for the floor lights. I was able to snake some wires down the cavity between the wall and the fridge. I'm using the gas detector circuit for the power source. No blown fuses.

Below are some pics of work performed. I'll install the switch after the fridge cabinet is painted.

Sorry to hear that, but glad you found a solution!

Actually, it might be a good thing. The separate switch will be easy access going in and out the door.

Sometimes all we’ll need is the floor lights to walk through the trailer to grab something. Since they are LED, they won’t draw much power if we leave and forget to turn them off.

I have an extra OEM rocker switch to use. Some might think it was installed at the factory.