1987 Avion 34V

[Salty]

Progress thus far:
Neither AC unit survived the trek from Virginia to Texas, so both of those got replaced. There is installed a PrecisionTemp on demand water heater (news to me) - this too isn't working and will be replaced this week. I still don't have a comprehensive list of defects from the repair shop (How long does a PDI take anyways?) so it's hard to prioritize which repairs need doing.
I hadn't realized that there was already an On Demand hot water heater in the trailer, but then I haven't had my hands on it enough to be, shall we say, intimate with it.
Aside from the PDI, they're going to get the trailer weighed and inspected then I get to have my way with it
After that, If there are no more major issues, then the order of operations goes something like this:
Click flooring - I understand that it works better if you lay it width wise VS length wise - Anyone know?
Electrical - the PO was fond of wire nuts. Wire nuts are on the short list of things that make me go ballistic.Those get removed as part of the LED replacement of all fluorescent light fixtures.
LED 12v replacement, either fixtures or bulbs, need to look at that closer.
Batteries: getting the four battery box from Silverloaf, and I'm looking at either Battleborn 100 Ah x4
https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop/10 ... e-battery/
or
Relion 200Ah x2
https://www.continuousresources.com/pro ... zQQAvD_BwE

Exterior: Windows - all window seals replaced. belt seal as well.
Eternabond alumibond the seams. Being proactive. If it isn't leaking now, it will someday.
Either Kool seal white or Rerubber white on the roof.

[Razorback]

You are going to have a nice trailer when it is all done!

What was the situation with wire nuts?

[Salty]

I'm sure it will be, I'm just impatient to get to my part. While I appreciate replacing the AC and hot water tank, I would like a complete report so I can make decisions. Additionally a weight and an inspection would be awesome.

Wire Nuts: At some point, a PO installed some non-standard (crappy) shelving and added a light to it and also added some fluorescent lighting in the living room area on 120 VAC circuits. To accomplish this, they used wire nuts to make the connections. While effective, I myself see them as a hazard, poor workmanship, ugly, inappropriate (I could go on...). the pic below is an example of my work.

relay cabinet.jpg (71.16 KiB) Viewed 2044 times

and in a previous life I was a teledata tech, wiring Central offices and my SH** was tight!
So when I see 1970 style wiring, or AGC fuses mounted on wood, I just throw up in my mouth.
A PO had some insight on the trailer - they installed PEX plumbing and the now failed on demand water heater, but wiring wasn't their strong suit.

[Razorback]

Yep, I have worked in a mainframe/server/network environment for 37 years and I know good wiring jobs when I see them.... you do a good job! Can't stand wiring that is left looking like a rat's nest.

[Erehtuo]

Curious on the click flooring, what type are you thinking of installing? Not sure it really matters how it's laid, isn't that just a personal preference? I would do it going with the length of the trailer so everything looks long inside.

LEDs sound pretty cool, let us know what you find when you start shopping. I'll be doing that too.

[Salty]

the click flooring I'm thinking about is the 10mm thick float with backing (10mm total thickness) I haven't chosen a mfr yet, or a color. Still waiting on a written PDI. I think there is a reason to go crossways - flex, expansion/contraction. Not sure still investigating that.

As for LED lights,I put together some shopping carts and saved them in .pdf
Apparently, we can't attach pdf files, so that will have to wait.

[silverloaf]

We've studied vinyl plank flooring for our trailer for some time. I've learned the best-rated products are 10-12mm thick. This is OK for a residence or light commercial. However, it adds considerable weight and thermal growth potential in a trailer versus a thinner material.

We have zoned in on a product from Smartcore. It is available through Lowes (begrudgingly). It is water-proof, 5.5mm thick and 5" wide. It has mixed reviews on wear characteristics; this not surprising since it is 45-65% less thick than, say, a Pergo product. But do we really need a flooring suitable for a herd of adolescents? I think not.

Everthing I have read says to keep a mimimum 1/4" between vinyl planking and an adjacent wall. Any shoe molding should be installed with light contact to the flooring. Caulk/glue is to be used sparingly to avoid restricting the ability of the floor to float. I'm considering a lightweight underlayment membrane to prevent squeaking between the old and new floors.

So far as plank orientation, we plan on installing it lengthwise. My wife says running it sideways will make our trailer look stubby and/or chubby. When it comes to the interior design, my standing response is, "Yes, Dear".

Can you save your lighting matrix as a jpeg and send it as a pic?

[Salty]

I uploaded the pdf files to media fire and shared the folder.
http://www.mediafire.com/?ea77ux17vfuyt
Mind you, these are simply ideas, not yet purchases. Going to 12V lighting is a no brainer. Sadly, it appears that I'm going to have to open the interior skins to replace wiring in order to bring the wiring into the 21st century. I just ordered up ANSI_RVIA Standard for Low Voltage Systems 2018 Edition and Standard for RVs 2018 Edition NFPA 1192
Looking at Ancor 12/3 marine wiring for the 120VAC and undetermined yet the 12VDC wiring. I actually would prefer something with a shield on it, so the shield can be grounded to reduce noise for a solar install.

Regarding your choice of flooring, it certainly gives me something to think about.

Captain Silverloaf, I Understand and Applaud your obeying the Admiral's orders. I would too, were I in your position.

[KYAvion]

Those 12v panel lights look interesting. I wonder what sort of lighting they produce in person.

I'll look into the board accepting PDF uploads. The issue is getting a lot of oversized attachments.

[Salty]

"I wonder what sort of lighting they produce in person."
EXACTLY!
Color output temp and lumens for the kitchen area are not what you may want in the entertainment area.