1987 Avion 34V

[silverloaf]

The 12v and 120v wiring in our '88 30P is in pretty good condition. The 12V wiring is 14-2 (no ground) stranded; the 120V is 12-2 with ground is solid. The insulation core around each 12ga rod is about 35% thicker than today's residential.

Note that wiring running within in an outside wall is encapsulated in closed-cell spray foam. From my perspective, I would think the foam would add some additional shielding.

[Salty]

I wish that the foam would act as a shield. Sadly, that is not the case. Electrical noise needs to find a path back to its' source. Electromagnetic interference is what it is really, and EMI is best defeated by a grounded shield around a conductor. The single greatest source of noise is the inverters. I can filter the DC side, no problem. The AC side is a little trickier.
Looking at marine wire, 12/3 with shield with 105 degrees C rating jerked me up pretty short. Alpha wire was the only company that I could find that makes it and for the princely sum of $1300 I could have 50 ft of it.
This in contrast to either Ancor or Alphas' 12/3 triplex marine wire rated for 105C at $204 /250 ft.

I spent the day drawing up a schematic for a solar install and doing the math for amperage ratings and such.
I got a rude awakening when I went to size the DC battery disconnect. If I care to run my AC units while on battery, I'm looking at 25 Amps @120 VAC. Doing the math, that puts me at 250 amps plus inverter losses in DC current. Aside from being a quick way to drain a 400Ah battery bank, the DC disconnect switch is going to be rather large. About the only place I can think of to put it would be on the battery box side/front/top, and I'm pretty sure the factory battery box isn't going to handle the weight. Putting it inside doesn't work b/c it needs to be accessible by firemen and first responders. Still working on this puzzle.
Even so, I ordered up solar panels and a combiner today.

[Salty]

UPDATE :
PEX plumbing is nearly complete. Items left are the low point drains under the bathroom sink and the redoing the shower valve and shower head.
Precision temp hot water heater is installed and flowing lots of hot water. Kitchen faucet has been rebuilt (Delta)

Dropped the rear pan to inspect. In the process, I installed some foam board insulation and spray foamed some gaps around the curbside vent Grey water plumbing.

Had a problem with the black water tank. It was clogged related to a PO dumping gauze bandages in the toilet. Yuck
New Dometic 320 toilet installed as part of the PEX redo. Now that the black water tank is clear, it's good to go.

Forward Credenza has been removed. Something similar will go in its place, just different to house the inverters.


Cut out the rotted section of flooring front curbside. Going to drop the pan forward this weekend.

Primed the wall where the dinette was this morning in prep for putting a table top in its place.

Are the level sensors on the black water tank repairable or replaceable?
Ditto for Grey water and potable water.

Dometic 2820 fridge isn't lighting propane. I suspect the solenoid valve. Can't smell any gas. There's no rust on the burner.

Any PEX friendly low point drain valves?

[Razorback]

Wow! You have been really busy!
Unfortunately, I have no answers to your questions....

[KYAvion]

I didn't care for the plastic low point drains, so I used standard ball valves that attach to vinyl braided tubing with hose clamps. I drilled holes in the floor just large enough to accommodate the hose lamps, and the tubing exits through the bellypan. Works great and works fast. I've run all the lines downhill so I can gravity drain everything and don't have to use a bit of antifreez (except the toilet valve of course, which runs off a tee and shutoff to isolate it from the rest of the plumbing).

[silverloaf]

I gave up trying to get every water line in a downward slope to a drain. There were too many places and connections that can trap water.

When I replaced our water system with PEX, I installed tees with plugs just below the faucets for the tub/shower and kitchen sink. To weatherize the system, I insert a male air fitting into the tee and blow each line down with compressed air to common drain points.

[Salty]

Good suggestions all

[KYAvion]

Since my 30R has a center bath it wasn't too bad. Everything runs downhill from the kitchen to the bath, and then from the bath to the rear bedroom where the water heater and city inlet are located. I've got two low points next to the water heater that do the entire system. I use my trailer routinely in the winter, so this is a real time saver. Now if I could just figure out an easy way to drain the toilet valve I'd be all set. At some point I may just wrap it in 12v heat tape.

[Razorback]

.......Now if I could just figure out an easy way to drain the toilet valve I'd be all set. At some point I may just wrap it in 12v heat tape.

Could a blow out with an air compressor work? I have had good luck with that.

[KYAvion]

That's not a bad thought. As long as the pressure is low enough to not damage the valve, that might just do the trick as long as there's enough volume. For a short run for just the line feeding the toilet valve, it wouldn't take much. Great idea!