AVION Travel Trailers

I suppose we will have to face the job of replacing our water lines. not really looking forward to it though. My husband has a lot of maintenance on our house looming over him, and I lack skills in the plumbing department. I may ask our friendly rv guy for a ball park estimate, but it will probably be shocking.

I guess the bypass valve and line that fills fresh water from city water is a convenience, but I feel like it's been a trouble area for us. Is there any benefit to keeping the two systems separate? we never use city water hookup. If it weren't for resale value, I'd just eliminate those lines when we redo the plumbing.

Don't sell yourself short. I wouldn't anticipate an RV center to be any more knowledgeable than you on a re-pipe.

The key is to develop a working schematic of the plumbing. Start with the existing layout and draw it on paper. Then evaluate the purpose and function of each valve in the system. If switching to PEX, mark each hot water line as red and cold as blue.

If you have any questions, reach out to the forum. Once you have an understanding as to how the system works, any person experienced with plumbing should be able to follow your plan.

I second that advise. Using pictures and help from this site I was able to redo all my plumbing without any hassle or outside help. If you need any help with ideas, or just a place to share your work, let us know. The plumbing (pex itself) was the most enjoyable part of the work I did last year. I use that bathroom and shower like it’s a guest house all the time now ... it’s my Corona Prep housing just in case.

thank you for the votes of confidence! I will start reading and re reading info and photos I've seen here and other places. I know that when we had old VW there was no one we trusted to do repairs on those odd ball vehicles. maybe we can and should do it. thanks

I am rebuilding our 1979 34W. I have replaced all water lines with PEX. From the pump outward I used the crimp on rings. I bought the better crimping tool, about $60. You still need very strong hands to compress the rings fully. I added angle stops at all outlets so I can work on anything without having to shut off pressure to the system. There are some locations, such as below the power converter, where access is difficult. We incorporated hot and cold for a washing toilet seat with adjustable valve. Without that there would not be need for access under the converter.
I also changed over the converter while at it. I saved about 50 pounds in the changeover. I added a panel above the water lines to separate them from the converter should a fitting spring a leak.
I also used flexible steel braided lines from the tank to the pump and from the pump connecting to the system. This allows some movement from the pump without working anything rigid.
I hope some of this is helpful for you.
Richard Crane

While the crimp method is good, and the crimper is a bit pricey, for the inexperienced, Shark bite fittings are user friendly ( but pricey). 50' rolls of 1/2" PEX are cheap. You'll want 1 blue and 1 red. I'll see if I cant work you up a diagram DJ

I am currently re doing the plumbing in my 84R and having trouble getting the old grey connection to turn loose on the bathtub/ shower faucet. The faucet is still in good shape and would like to reuse.

Disregard my last post. I got the connections off of the faucet with a lot of elbow grease. I now have a complete plumbing redo with pex and got rid of the old grey stuff. Btw, I have a 1984 30R.

What is everyone doing with the drain valves under the bathroom sink? Mine just empty into the belly pan and I’m not a big fan of that. Not sure how to correct it or if it even needs corrected.
I’ve got the kitchen sink and new filter plumbed in and the water pump screwed down but I still need to place the accumulator tank somewhere but I haven’t decided where yet. I want to attach it to the pump but I’m not sure if the space will be available once I install everything else I plan on adding under the roadside bed.

We have a 30P. It has a rear bathroom and a large service compartment behind it for storing the spare tire. I installed tees and 1/4 turn drain valves where the water lines merge behind the vanity.

I drilled two holes in the floor, as well as the belly pan, and threaded 1/2" clear tubing though the holes. The tubing extends below the pan about 4-5".

I drilled the holes through the belly pan while I had it dropped. I used a metal hole impact punch in the pan for a smooth opening. I sized the hole to the outside diameter of a rubber grommet. The inside diameter matches the outside of the tubing for snug fit.
https://www.amazon.com/Sheet-Metal-Punc ... B0793S5WM1

Regarding the accumulator, ours is teed into water line immediately after the pump. This was in accordance to instructions from the pump manufacturer.