80's Magic Chef Oven
80's Magic Chef Oven
As much as I hate to admit it, occasionally I run across good information on the AF site.
Saw a good write-up on a possible repair for the oven thermostat:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f426/19 ... 79096.html
I am going to paste the text of that post here:
"My oven didn't work... it would light but not turn on the main burner...
(NOTE: IF YOUR NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINE... DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE OR WORK ON THE OVEN/STOVE AND/OR THERMOSTAT ... THIS IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT ONLY... DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK)
Some also say that the oven burner will lights up and won't shut off in temp control... both conditions are symptomatic... Mine would work after it got hot.. but not when it was cold...
Having made sure the gas lines are open and clear.. and the jets are not plugged...After many hours of searching for help on getting the oven back to working... and putting up with " REPLACE THERMOSTAT" when parts are NO LONGER AVAILABLE.... and the parts guy saying... you need to buy a new stove/oven for $600 bux... AND...
I like the advantage of having the 4 burners. The stove and oven being in good condition... I am not about to throw it away.... and back then they made them to last.. after all its 30+ years old and made out of good metal...
I, being a engineer, decided that the problem with the oven part is in the thermostat... but try and find a line drawing of one... nada...
Ok... so lets get to it... the pilot flame would light.. but the pilot would not grow to heat the gas valve thermocouple on mine when cold...(ah ha clue here) but would work when hot just fine.... This then leads one to suspect the Thermostat valve... failure when cold...
After removing and taking the thermostat apart... to come to a understanding of how the parts work....
(you want to be very careful here as them gaskets and all are 'NOT AVAILABLE' and your dealing with 30+year old parts.. )
I now have a understanding of how the thermostat works... and once apart.. found out why it fails... (Which in fact it is not a defective part but instead the lubricant grease that they used 30 years ago.)
After cleaning and lub'n it back up with new tech materials... its working just fine and saved the unit from the trash bin.
What the major problem is ...
Its the adjustment screw slipping inside the temp shaft... that is not allowing the operation spring to stay set.
Why does it slip... well the main screw that is located under the larger spring was coated with grease back when it was built. Through the years it has hardened up.. and gotten sticky... thus it almost could be considered glue... and thus cause the adjustment screw inside the temp control shaft to slip which then causes the assembly to fail to operate correctly even though you are turning the control knob.. its not changing the compression on the temp spring due to the lock up of the control screw.
Solution:
(You do this at your own risk... as your playing with pressured gas... that can leak and cause damage)
Shut off the gas at the tank... and lock it so that on one else can turn it back on while your have the thermostat off
Remove the gas lines... remove the two hold down screws... (don't lose the silicone O ring that is the seal)
Try not to bend or damage the thermocouple tubing
Remove the 3 screws that hold the thermocouple plate on the back of the thermostat...
Being careful you take the temp bulb back plate off... (three screws) do not damage the old gasket... (again their are no parts for these units that are over 30 years old) so if you damage it you need to have someone make you another gasket identical to the existing....
being careful not to lose the Temp control device inside the housing and/or damage it.
Work only over a table with a clean non lint piece on the table... remove the temp device from the inside of the housing.. it almost will fall out the back
Set the housing aside... and work with the Temp device.. that looks like a shaft with a spring on one end in the middle... (mine also has a small spring over the shaft... with a C clip keeper...that I removed by compressing the spring and carefully removing the C clip setting it aside for later)
Un screw the shaft... (it is a reverse thread) being careful to note that the spring is under pressure and at the end will want to jump... (before doing this you may want to take a pic of the unit so that you don't forget how to put it back the same way they made it...)
Once you unscrew the shaft.. you will see the threads of the screw... and if like mine.. the old grease that they used will be sticky and hard like goo...
Clean the old grease off all the parts... ( I used isopropyl alcohol to help clean mine)
Make sure the threads on the screw are clean and the threads in the shaft are also...
Re lube with silicone gel or other anti siezse material.
Re assemble the unit.. (again note that the temp assembly screw is reverse thread.. and should be compressing the large spring...before placing it back in the housing... and reverse order the installation... and ensure that the two ears of the shaft are seated into the temp control shaft inside.
When done check for gas leaks... if none found proceed to lighting the oven...
Put the temp control knob back on... and turn it to about 300 deg ... this opens up the supply valve in the thermostat and start the gas flowing...you should find that the pilot flame will probably be enlarged (which it does to heat the thermocouple for the main burner... )
Have a small 3/32 blade screwdrive... to work the temp adjustment screw located inside the temp control shaft... You will need to adjust this for oven temp to match the control knob...
You will also have to make sure that the oven control temp shaft doesn't move when you make your adjustment...
with the oven door closed... give it time to stabilize... and you should find that the Magic Chef oven now works as advertised 30 years ago... correctly again... and should last another 30 years.
I don't know why their hasn't been someone that has found out how to overhaul these units years ago when the problem started to show up...
Its a shame that a lot of people were forced into buying a new stove and oven.. when for a little labor could have repaired their existing one... its not rocket science...
I can see how the old company (whirlpool) wanted to make money... back when they bought out Magic Chef... but now... that they are gone.. what options do the user have ?...
True new is current supply... but wait 30 year.. and they too will be history... The old engineers did a good job designing the old Magic Chef... and it could contenue if parts were made again... but, at what cost...
Lucky that we have the forum here to help maintain the good old units... "
Saw a good write-up on a possible repair for the oven thermostat:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f426/19 ... 79096.html
I am going to paste the text of that post here:
"My oven didn't work... it would light but not turn on the main burner...
(NOTE: IF YOUR NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINE... DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE OR WORK ON THE OVEN/STOVE AND/OR THERMOSTAT ... THIS IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT ONLY... DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK)
Some also say that the oven burner will lights up and won't shut off in temp control... both conditions are symptomatic... Mine would work after it got hot.. but not when it was cold...
Having made sure the gas lines are open and clear.. and the jets are not plugged...After many hours of searching for help on getting the oven back to working... and putting up with " REPLACE THERMOSTAT" when parts are NO LONGER AVAILABLE.... and the parts guy saying... you need to buy a new stove/oven for $600 bux... AND...
I like the advantage of having the 4 burners. The stove and oven being in good condition... I am not about to throw it away.... and back then they made them to last.. after all its 30+ years old and made out of good metal...
I, being a engineer, decided that the problem with the oven part is in the thermostat... but try and find a line drawing of one... nada...
Ok... so lets get to it... the pilot flame would light.. but the pilot would not grow to heat the gas valve thermocouple on mine when cold...(ah ha clue here) but would work when hot just fine.... This then leads one to suspect the Thermostat valve... failure when cold...
After removing and taking the thermostat apart... to come to a understanding of how the parts work....
(you want to be very careful here as them gaskets and all are 'NOT AVAILABLE' and your dealing with 30+year old parts.. )
I now have a understanding of how the thermostat works... and once apart.. found out why it fails... (Which in fact it is not a defective part but instead the lubricant grease that they used 30 years ago.)
After cleaning and lub'n it back up with new tech materials... its working just fine and saved the unit from the trash bin.
What the major problem is ...
Its the adjustment screw slipping inside the temp shaft... that is not allowing the operation spring to stay set.
Why does it slip... well the main screw that is located under the larger spring was coated with grease back when it was built. Through the years it has hardened up.. and gotten sticky... thus it almost could be considered glue... and thus cause the adjustment screw inside the temp control shaft to slip which then causes the assembly to fail to operate correctly even though you are turning the control knob.. its not changing the compression on the temp spring due to the lock up of the control screw.
Solution:
(You do this at your own risk... as your playing with pressured gas... that can leak and cause damage)
Shut off the gas at the tank... and lock it so that on one else can turn it back on while your have the thermostat off
Remove the gas lines... remove the two hold down screws... (don't lose the silicone O ring that is the seal)
Try not to bend or damage the thermocouple tubing
Remove the 3 screws that hold the thermocouple plate on the back of the thermostat...
Being careful you take the temp bulb back plate off... (three screws) do not damage the old gasket... (again their are no parts for these units that are over 30 years old) so if you damage it you need to have someone make you another gasket identical to the existing....
being careful not to lose the Temp control device inside the housing and/or damage it.
Work only over a table with a clean non lint piece on the table... remove the temp device from the inside of the housing.. it almost will fall out the back
Set the housing aside... and work with the Temp device.. that looks like a shaft with a spring on one end in the middle... (mine also has a small spring over the shaft... with a C clip keeper...that I removed by compressing the spring and carefully removing the C clip setting it aside for later)
Un screw the shaft... (it is a reverse thread) being careful to note that the spring is under pressure and at the end will want to jump... (before doing this you may want to take a pic of the unit so that you don't forget how to put it back the same way they made it...)
Once you unscrew the shaft.. you will see the threads of the screw... and if like mine.. the old grease that they used will be sticky and hard like goo...
Clean the old grease off all the parts... ( I used isopropyl alcohol to help clean mine)
Make sure the threads on the screw are clean and the threads in the shaft are also...
Re lube with silicone gel or other anti siezse material.
Re assemble the unit.. (again note that the temp assembly screw is reverse thread.. and should be compressing the large spring...before placing it back in the housing... and reverse order the installation... and ensure that the two ears of the shaft are seated into the temp control shaft inside.
When done check for gas leaks... if none found proceed to lighting the oven...
Put the temp control knob back on... and turn it to about 300 deg ... this opens up the supply valve in the thermostat and start the gas flowing...you should find that the pilot flame will probably be enlarged (which it does to heat the thermocouple for the main burner... )
Have a small 3/32 blade screwdrive... to work the temp adjustment screw located inside the temp control shaft... You will need to adjust this for oven temp to match the control knob...
You will also have to make sure that the oven control temp shaft doesn't move when you make your adjustment...
with the oven door closed... give it time to stabilize... and you should find that the Magic Chef oven now works as advertised 30 years ago... correctly again... and should last another 30 years.
I don't know why their hasn't been someone that has found out how to overhaul these units years ago when the problem started to show up...
Its a shame that a lot of people were forced into buying a new stove and oven.. when for a little labor could have repaired their existing one... its not rocket science...
I can see how the old company (whirlpool) wanted to make money... back when they bought out Magic Chef... but now... that they are gone.. what options do the user have ?...
True new is current supply... but wait 30 year.. and they too will be history... The old engineers did a good job designing the old Magic Chef... and it could contenue if parts were made again... but, at what cost...
Lucky that we have the forum here to help maintain the good old units... "
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
Re: 80's Magic Chef Oven
Here is my opinion/observation: If you needs info on Airstream restoration, Airforums is actually very useful. It has many useful threads and there are many knowledgeable folks that are also very helpful. AF is also useful for mundane topics: What is the best grill, campground reviews, etc.
AF is probably the worst place to get objective opinions on Airstreams (and other trailers), tow vehicles, weight distribution hitches, tires, and RV shops. It is packed with shockingly clueless serial posters (the type who believe anything they see on YouTube). The main theme is that sedans/minivans with low center of gravity and independent suspension are superior to trucks, hence, you are OK to ignore vehicle specifications, because thats what an RV salesperson they trust says. They cite a few videos that show a sedan doing a slalom at 35 MPH in an empty parking lot. Nobody can explain why you don't see any sedans on the road or in campgrounds, and bringing this up will result in your post being deleted by Soviet moderators and getting a warning
1978 Avion 26-H
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5
Re: 80's Magic Chef Oven
Many good points right there! 
Rostam wrote: ↑Sun Mar 18, 2018 10:40 pm
Here is my opinion/observation: If you needs info on Airstream restoration, Airforums is actually very useful. It has many useful threads and there are many knowledgeable folks that are also very helpful. AF is also useful for mundane topics: What is the best grill, campground reviews, etc.
AF is probably the worst place to get objective opinions on Airstreams (and other trailers), tow vehicles, weight distribution hitches, tires, and RV shops. It is packed with shockingly clueless serial posters (the type who believe anything they see on YouTube). The main theme is that sedans/minivans with low center of gravity and independent suspension are superior to trucks, hence, you are OK to ignore vehicle specifications, because thats what an RV salesperson they trust says. They cite a few videos that show a sedan doing a slalom at 35 MPH in an empty parking lot. Nobody can explain why you don't see any sedans on the road or in campgrounds, and bringing this up will result in your post being deleted by Soviet moderators and getting a warning
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???