Floor repair
Floor repair
Knowing there was a soft spot in the fwd street side corner (and having discovered the axle isn't bent as much as I thought) curiosity won out. Pulled the front shelf and table support out and removed the settee. Worse then I thought but not that bad. Just another project. Bah!
Re: Floor repair
Finally got the sub floor in. All the other parts are cut and fitted so should wrap up this section tomorrow.
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Re: Floor repair
Looks good. Soon it will be good as new again.
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
- brian.christopher
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- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:48 pm
Re: Floor repair
I’m going through the exact same thing in the same spot.
How did you make your template for the bottom layer of plywood?
How did you make your template for the bottom layer of plywood?
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Re: Floor repair
Brian -brian.christopher wrote: ↑Fri Mar 16, 2018 8:31 pm I’m going through the exact same thing in the same spot.
How did you make your template for the bottom layer of plywood?
Here's' the process I used on mine:
Start at a curved corner. Get a piece of perfectly square cardboard (or thin plywood) that is 6" longer than the curve at each side; I did mine at 26" square.
Lay the cardboard on the floor with a corner touching the curve of the aluminum channel under the walls. Square up the cardboard so it is parallel to the side and rear wall channel. Scribe 2 lines along the cardboard facing the inside of the trailer.
As you cut away the cardboard to shape the curve, keep the cardboard parallel to these two lines. The cardboard doesn't have to be in contact with the lines, just parallel.
Begin cutting at the cardboard so it moves toward the curve. Once you get nearer to the channel, take a piece of wood and pencil (or dividers), hold the wood against the channel and the pencil at the other. Scribe a line that follows the profile of the channel.
Cut out the profile with a sharp knife. Push the template against the channel and check for uniform contact. To do the other side, take another piece of cardboard, flip the template over, and trace its pattern. The elliptical curve on both sides should be symmetrical.
When you are done, the template should fit the curve and be parallel to the channel at the ends. Everything else becomes straight and square lines to measure out the new floor.
When you get the floor out, the template should follow the shape of the outer skin as well. Some tweeking of the templates should be expected for a tight fit.
Bob
" Faith can move mountains, but don't be surprised if God hands you a shovel.”
Silverloaf (Bob)
Dawsonville, GA
1988 30P
Silverloaf (Bob)
Dawsonville, GA
1988 30P
Re: Floor repair
Brian. I'll post a group of pics tomorrow morning of how to make a pattern. It's very simple but will require a hot melt glue gun (10$) or a handful of 1/2 screws and some cheap 1/4 or 1/8" plywood or cardboard. And it's very accurate.
- brian.christopher
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:48 pm
Re: Floor repair
Thanks a lot guys.
Re: Floor repair
In the group of photos you can see the sequence I hope. I used cardboard. A lead wt to hold it in place. A soup can or such will do. The two pointers at each end represent the beginning of the straight section after the curve. X marks the end of the curve. Once the template is completed place it on your plywood. Mark each point then use a thin batten to connect the points.
Then cut. I usually cut the line a bit heavy so it can be shaved here and there to fit perfectly.
Generally the template is on the frames and the pointers of course go under the wall to the inside of the outer wall.
Then cut. I usually cut the line a bit heavy so it can be shaved here and there to fit perfectly.
Generally the template is on the frames and the pointers of course go under the wall to the inside of the outer wall.
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- brian.christopher
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 10:48 pm
Re: Floor repair
Great info thanks.