1987 34W - Bearing and Grease Seal project

[silverloaf]

There was a part number stamped into the flange of the OEM bushing. I did an on-line search but nothing correlated to the number. After several inquiries around the metro-Detroit area, I was directed to a company that specializes in primarily truck suspension parts.

After 30 minutes of sleuthing through their databases, they produced several part numbers. I recognized one of them as a Ford number; the others were after-market and not traceable. Another on-line search directed me to the parts store mentioned earlier.

The rest is history.

[Salty]

there is a number stamped into the bushing. i'd be willing to bet Bob researched that number, correct me if I'm wrong.
whether it is by law or by standard, all bearings and seals have a number stamped into them. If you have that number, you can research your bearing/seal. I've found NAPA to be a fantastic source for bearings and seals and have a cross reference book that will get you out of most jams.

[Salty]

you were faster than me ... lol!

[silverloaf]

One last comment on the pivot bushing. They are a PITA to remove and install. It took me over an hour to beat the original bushing out of the pin bore. The bushing's steel carrier had practically welded itself to the pin bore due to rust. I tried using heat but that made the rubber core smoke and angry; same for me.

At that point, I scooped up the axles and headed to a near-by shop with a stationary press. After an hour or so, I was back in business.

[Salty]

Ya gotta love a press

[Salty]

Well, currently, I have the trailer on blocks and belly pans off . Might as well get this done while I'm at it. Ordered the pivot bushings today.

[Markinalaska]

Here is something to add to the archives. It's the pivot bushing for the inner end of each axle. It is pressed into the pin bore through which the pivot bolt is inserted.

Note the part was originally used on 1965-79 Ford pick-up trucks. The bushings are no longer in production. However, I purchased them through a supplier who specializes in obsolete inventory.

https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_truc ... drive.html#

Hey silverloaf,
Do you know if those bushings will fit the 3500lb axles? They look the same but mines not round at all and it appears to be spot welded in place for some reason. Which will make it a bit harder to replace them. Not impossible but cost more Lol.
Here’s what mine look like.

You can see the weld on the upper left of the second pic. At least I think it’s a weld, might just be rust.

[silverloaf]

Yes, my half-axles were rated at least 3500#.

I recall the bushings are semi-round in the package but oval when installed.

Yes, mine had what looked like a tack weld. But I not sure why. Perhaps Avion was fearful the bushing could either shift or back out in motion.

The best way to remove and install these rascals is with a good-sized press (auto parts store, front end shop, etc). I spent 2 hours just trying to remove one. It involved a large chisel, a torch (that just makes it smoke and angry) and a dose of cussing. It's just not worth it.

Make sure you install the new ones in the same orientation as the old. I can't recall which side of the bushing should face forward when the axles are re-installed.

Have you read the instructions on how the shims should be installed on each side of the pivot point?

[Markinalaska]

I haven’t seen those particular instructions but was told to pay attention of the number of shims and which side they were on. Of course the shims on the only axle that I’ve removed so far was so rusted you couldn’t tell where one started or the next ended. So when I beat the axle out they all fell on the ground in a jumbled mess. But, after looking at the bolt that holds all that together I think I can figure out how many were on at least the one side by the rust marks on the bolt. It appears that there were 5 on the rear side and 3 on the front. At least that’s how it appears. I did read somewhere that a big screwdriver might be needed to install the last shim. Can’t recall where I read that though.
I will order those bushings to replace the old ones. Right now I’ve got the center curbside axle at the welders to get a new spindle welded on. If that works out well I might just get 5 more and replace them all. The new spindle is greasable and I can see the advantage of having a greasable spindle on the trailer. It cost more to ship the spindle up here than the cost of the spindle but I needed one fairly quickly so I can get this thing off of the blocks. I live in an earthquake area and that kind of concerns me. The trailer wouldn’t survive falling over I’m sure. The spindle was only $26 and some change but $40 to ship it. I plan on waiting to see how good of a job the welders do on the one axle before I commit to any more. But it’s a company that also does underwater welding so I hope they can do a decent job. They seem like they knew what they were talking about. On the tack weld the welder said they probably did that so the bushing couldn’t possibly spin in the axle.

[silverloaf]

I recall there were 5 washers on the front of the bushing and 4 behind on our trailer. Each washer (or shim) represents 1/8" change in toe setting at the tire. The 5th washer biases the leading edge of the tire 1/8" inboard toward the frame. As the trailer moves down the road, the tire's rolling resistance forces the tire rearward to 0 toe. This is the optimum position for tire wear.

I recall others in this forum had to shift the shims around to compensate for worn out or bent parts. The true test is how the tires look after a long tow. The wear pattern will pretty much dictate whether the toe (and washers) need adjustment.

The grease-able spindle is a great idea. I didn't go that far. But I purchased the backing plate and brake pad assemblies with the self-adjust feature.