Avion 30P Underbelly Aluminum sheet

eijentwun · Post by **eijentwun** » Thu Jun 17, 2021 5:14 pm

The Bolts of the underbelly of my Avion have all rusted and the whole sheet from the middle to the back bumper has almost completely detached. How can I GLUE it or attach it some other method? The sheet i svery deteriorated but still works. I cannot afford to have it redone... I want to do an easy bur effective job of glueing it...preferably without having to clean the aluminum first (way too hard as I am on the street). I did a quick temporary fix where I attached two metal rods and tied them to the compartment latches in order to hold up the sheets. Was afraid if I drove fast enough the wind would rip them off completely.

Help someone

silverloaf · Post by **silverloaf** » Thu Jun 17, 2021 10:13 pm

eijentwun wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 5:14 pm The Bolts of the underbelly of my Avion have all rusted and the whole sheet from the middle to the back bumper has almost completely detached. How can I GLUE it or attach it some other method? The sheet i svery deteriorated but still works. I cannot afford to have it redone... I want to do an easy bur effective job of glueing it...preferably without having to clean the aluminum first (way too hard as I am on the street). I did a quick temporary fix where I attached two metal rods and tied them to the compartment latches in order to hold up the sheets. Was afraid if I drove fast enough the wind would rip them off completely.

Help someone

There is a propane gas line than runs beneath the belly pan. Your biggest concern should be ripping the gas line off due to a cheap and dirty fix to hold the pan in place.
Remove and discard the deteriorated belly pan, including the insulation. Replace it with galvanized sheet metal when you have the money, time, strength, space and knowledge to do it correctly.

eijentwun · Post by **eijentwun** » Sat Jun 19, 2021 10:32 pm

Yes, that gas line was the first thing that terrorfied me if something went wrong...for instance if I left the Gas tank open and started driving, and suddenly the underbelly sheet flies off...rips the line so that its tip drags on the ground creating sparks....and BOOM! I am honestly shocked what a dumb design this is. I did a temporary fix and have zero clue how one would be mounted back on there correctly..talked to a few welders, they didnt really know. BUt I dont have the money to really pay anyone. And ontop of that, wouldnt this NEW sheet neet to be cut in an exact shape? and wouldn't someone need to come measure it?

silverloaf · Post by **silverloaf** » Mon Jun 21, 2021 10:35 am

First of all, if your trailer is like most, the gas line is usually made from copper. It is non-ferrous and will not create sparks if dragged on the ground.

I would agree that Avion could have done a better job of securing the gas line under the belly pan. It is one of many modifications I made while restoring our trailer.

Avion chose not to run the gas line above the belly pan for fear a leak would create gas pocket. The vapors could leak into the trailer and asphyxiate the occupants or create a thermal event. It is an industry standard to keep all fuel lines in open air.

Regarding securing the belly pan, self-tapping screws are used to secure the pan to the sub-frame. The website below describes the design with pictures of various types. I chose one with a hex head, roughly 5/8" in length. I used a cordless drill to install them.
https://www.valuefastener.com/screws/se ... et%20metal.

Don't worry about trying to find the original holes in the frame when installing a new pan. Use an angle grinder to remove the existing screws. Then go back across the frame and grind down any screws that are still protruding.

Once the existing belly pan is removed, use it as a template for fabricating new pieces. I believe the width is either 54" or 64"; measure yours to verify. There are notches and cutouts that need to be transferred to the the new pan. Also, take note of the mounting location where the pan was attached to steel framing that run from side to side. I had our new galvanized pieces cut and supplied by a local heating and cooling fabrication shop.

If it is your intention to ultimately restore the trailer, leave the bad portions of the belly pan off until you do a thorough evaluation of the underside of the trailer. I had to perform a lot of reconstructive surgery to some steel crossmembers before replacing the rear floor; it also included dropping two holding tanks and replacing drain lines. It is near impossible to observe and then repair damage like this from inside the trailer.

Lastly, spend some time going through the archives of posts under each category. Many go back to 2016. It will give you a feel for the level of complexity and hard work necessary to give an Avion restoration justice.

Good luck!

eijentwun · Post by **eijentwun** » Mon Jun 21, 2021 4:58 pm

Well thank you very much for that thorough reply..greatly appreciated and gives me some courage to perhaps find a way to attempt this. I have a question about the self piercing screws. The original screws are rusted and seem to be drilled into the Trailers very Beams! So are you telling me these self tapping/piercing screws will drill onto that beam easily? Or if I shave the okd rusted screw heads off, the new ones will drill themselves into the old screws? Also someone mentioned in another topic that the price of a replacement aluminum or steel sheet is about $60? I can do $60 twice if I must.

AVION Travel Trailers