50 amp and new wiring

[Kara]

Hi, I have lots of questions. I’m am upgrading to 50 amp (using a progressive Dynamics pd4560 power center). I am wondering about redistributing power to the receptacles. My understanding is that all receptacles/ outlets are on one 20 amp Breaker now. Does the wiring ring the trailer? Does someone have a wiring diagram of 1986 special edition 34v? If it is a ring can I disconnect at a couple of receptacles/outlets and run new wire to feed it creating three zones for receptacles on different breakers. Any advice going into the power center upgrade? It looks straight forward but I haven’t found any YouTube’s on installing this converter. Any other tips for adding new receptacles?

[KYAvion]

Upgrading the panel isn’t bad. I recently redid both my 12v and 120v panels... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1307

The thing to remember with your 50 amp panel is that it’s a SUBPANEL. That is, the ground and neutral are kept SEPARATE and do not bond together like in The main panel of your house (so don’t install a neutral/ground bond bar if you panel comes with one and keep the neutrals and grounds on different bars).

As far as outlets, I simply ran new wiring for dedicated outlets in the bathroom and also the rear bedroom/shower wall for a wall mount heater in the bedroom. In the future I will run wiring for two dedicated outlets in the kitchen, as well as for a dedicated outlet below the range for another space heater up front. Lastly, I’ll run a separate circuit for the optional 110v for the water heater.

The microwave is already on a dedicated circuit, and the remaining outlets are just used (in my case) for TV’s, power tool battery chargers, iPhone chargers, etc., so they aren’t high amp draw outlets needing dedicated circuits.

All the above is pretty easy to do—at least in my 30R. I constructed a small wire chase below the front of the bed, and then the wiring can run freely under the bathroom shower and cabinets, kitchen cabinets, etc. The biggest hassle in my opinion was enlarging the storage compartment to accommodate the giant 50 amp cable.

[KYAvion]

Below is the enlarged storage space for the 50 amp cord and water connection. I wanted everything insulated and sealed up well, so the entire area is constructed of thin pieces of wood and 3/4” foil faced foam board and silicone at all joints.

As you can see the 50 amp cable goes through the back wall of the compartment. On the other side is a large PVC junction box with Polaris style connectors for the 2 hots and the neutral. I decided to use a standard split bolt connector for the ground since the wire size for the ground in the 50 amp cable is slightly smaller (8 AWG instead of 6 AWG) and I felt as though I had a more solid connection with the split bolt.

This is the wire chase at the foot of the bed, which also serves as a place for shoes/slippers....

Also, I opted for surface mount boxes to ease installation. These are just white exterior PVC boxes from Lowe’s. The exterior boxes are a bit smaller than the interior surface mount boxes, and in my opinion actually look better since they are a true white color unlike the interior boxes.

[Kara]

Wow, thank you for such a detailed reply. It gives me a lot to consider. Especially how to distribute the new power were it is needed in the trailer. I ended up getting a detachable plug-inPower cord because the hatch was so small I didn’t think it would stow in there. I didn’t think about enlarging it that would’ve been another way to go.

[KYAvion]

A detachable cord definitely simplifies things, and I would have done that myself if my trailer didn’t remain plugged in 24/7. I guess I feel like my cord is a little more difficult to steal being hardwired.

As far as the receptacle for the detachable cord, I would consider installing the receptacle along the exterior skin or line the interior of the compartment with noncombustible material (e.g., 1/4” Hardibacker cement board). Maybe I’m paranoid, but I’ve seen too many charred receptacles/plugs.

[Kara]

Good point. I will definitely do that now. That would be a terrible place for a fire right next to the power center and the propane water heater.

[Salty]

@Kara Something to consider is if your water heater is propane or not. I think that if you look at the literature for your power center that it says that it is not ignition protected. In other words, keep it away from potential propane leaks.
The outlets, which I refer to as general purpose outlets (not dedicated , such as the one for the microwave) on my 87V were in a ring connected to a single breaker. However, you can test this theory yourself. Plug something into an outlet (a light works well for this test) and turn off the 20 amp breakers one at a time until the power drops. Then check the remaining outlets for power.
If you have your owners manual, there should be a diagram there.
If you isolate a section by disconnecting BOTH ends of the wiring (for example the front right corner and the dinette) then you need to supply power to the isolated section. I say disconnect both ends because you wouldn't want a cable with 120 volts on it that isn't terminated.So the cable between the two is inert. The cable running aft (connected to the dinette, bedroom and in the bathroom) is where you need to supply power to those outlets. The easiest way to do that is to break into the circuit at the bathroom GFCI receptacle. It is relatively easy to access. Something to note here is that the bathroom GFCI is also the junction for the exterior utility outlet. You could easily separate that outlet here and place it on a dedicated circuit. I would recommend a GFCI receptacle for the external utility outlet.

[Kara]

Thanks where is the outside outlet in you 34v? I’ve not seen a outside outlet. My power center presently is near the propane / electric water heater. It’s a back bathroom model. The power center is in the driver side bathroom cabinets directly in front of the power/ water inlet box. Next to the box is the water heater. Moving the location would be a much larger undertaking.

[Salty]

Next to the box is the water heater. Moving the location would be a much larger undertaking.

Yes it would. Options are:
Get a power center that is ignition proof
Move the power center out of harms way
Create a gas proof enclosure around the power center
Live with the risk.
My purpose here is not to alarm, but to educate.My apologies if this post sounds a bit dickish, but - while you may consider living with it an acceptable risk, on the day when you sell it, will the prospective owner ?
The odds are in your favor that an explosive event will not occur and I don't know what those odds are.
For me, I chose to relocate the power center. I have seen the results of what happens when a fuel gas ignites in a confined area. Put it down to personal paranoia. Was it expensive? yes, but I made other modifications as well and I work with electricity for a living.
Here's a thought. Get a second gas detector. The type with a shut off valve for the propane. Mount it next to the power center, say, inside the enclosure with the water heater/power center. Mount the valve in line with the gas supply for the water heater outside the trailer. In the event of a leak, the detector alerts you and the valve closes shutting the propane off.
Now you ask, Is the original power center ignition proof? Don't know. Don't care. Does NFPA or RVIA now require an ignition proof power center? Haven't checked the regs that deeply. Does NFPA or RVIA now require the power center removed from any source of gas? Again, haven't checked the regs that deeply.Have there been any incidents in the last 10 years of an RV power center igniting a gas fire? Don't have the data.
Others here will likely disagree. That's fine. to each their own. What you choose to do is your business. I eliminated the risk.

[Salty]

Thanks where is the outside outlet in you 34v?

The utility outlet should be in the rear most curbside storage compartment.