Our "New" 1986 Silver Edition Avion 34V

[michellelegs]

We are the proud owners of a Avion 34V silver edition that we believe we saved from the RV graveyard. Now the fun has begun. We have been researching like crazy and are having a difficult time finding a chart or list of the exact sealants to use on the different areas that leak. Is there such a document available? We appreciate any help that you can provide us!

[KYAvion]

Hello and welcome! Different areas require different approaches as far as leaks. I applied Eternabond tape to the main roof seam on mine, and did the same around any fixtures on the roof (air vents, plumbing vents, etc). A polyurethane caulk applied to larger seams under the tape isn’t a bad idea either. I also applied Eternabond to the gutter over the main awning on my trailer to cover all the rivets fastening the rail, which was a major source of leaks for me. As far as smaller seams (e.g., where trailer skins overlap) most use Parbond. Parbond is also often used for marker lights, etc. However, per the advice of another forum member, I used Lexel along all lights and awning brackets, and it has worked well. I also applied a heavy amount to the rear bumper/trailer area, and it has done great there as well.

[RISK]

Howdy and welcome,

My number one advice is DO NOT USE SILICONE SEALANT ANYWHERE EXCEPT WHERE GLASS MEETS METAL.

A list of sealants typically used are:

TremPro 635
Silkaflex
Parbond
Capt Tolly’s

Plus many more...
Here is a link to a one stop shop of sorts:
https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/ex ... t-s/24.htm

Ian

[michellelegs]

Thank you so much I will share the information with my husband, ceiling any spots that may or are leaking and fixing our windows is our next step. Support arms do either of you have any advice as to how to secure the back awning support arms, they have come loose from the rivets. Thank you so much, my husband said they are the fancy rivets not the ones that you can drill out... We just spent spring break tearing out the rotted floor and my husband was able to replace the front/living room floor so we are starting to move...

[RISK]

Howdy,

“Fancy rivets”? I’m intrigued.

The three main types of rivets used in these trailers are as follows:

1) Buck/ed Rivets. These are the most common exterior structural rivets. They are most prevalent on the outside and look like a small, smooth dome. They can be drilled out by using a center punch to make a dimple then, the most important part, using the appropriate sized drill bit. Typically 1/8” but some may be larger. It is very important to center punch in the center, then drill them out as straight as possible so you don’t enlarge the hole. This last bit goes with all rivets.
2) Pop Rivets. These have a hole in the dome part. Mostly they are found in the interior skin as that is what those are attached with. If found on the exterior, then it was likely an add on, such as the belt line moulding, or a “fix” by the PO (Previous Owner, also referred to as a Piece Of ...). These have some structural nature and can be made leak resistant if installed right
3) Olympic Rivets. These are tricky to spot as they masquerade as Buck Rivets but are really just complicated pop rivets. These are almost always a sign of repair. They look like Buck Rivets but have an indication of a small circle in the middle of the dome. That’s the mandrel. A sneaky small shaft that pulls the inside towards the out. These almost always leaks. While I’ve used them, I prefer pop rivets to them and Buck Rivets even more when feasible.

All of these rivets can be removed, albeit, often with curse words and with the assistance of pliers or whiskey.

Please post pictures. We’re mostly simple folk here and need visuals to help with helping you.

Ian

[KYAvion]

In terms of leaks, why is it you like pop rivets over Olympic rivets?

[RISK]

In terms of leaks, why is it you like pop rivets over Olympic rivets?

For the experience gained by these reasons:

Olympic Rivets, with the three legged split design are more prone to leaking than pop rivets with simpler double mushroom (for lack of a better description) design . On my Airstream, there was a major repair that was most likely done by a reputable dealer or even possibly at Jackson Center. The whole lower front streetside quarter panel including the window above was replaced from the outside without disturbing any of the interior and was done with all Olympics. If there is 100 Rivets, 95 of them showed signs of leaking. While the subsequent badging and small plaques done with pop rivets probably done at or soon after manufacturing showed some, but minimal signs of leaks. Maybe 15-20%. This trailer is completely gutted with all of the interior skins removed so I have a clear view of everything from the inside.

Due to their simplicity, pop rivets are inherently stronger, structurally speaking than Olympics. The bulb on the end of the mandrel slips into the shaft of the body of the rivet instead of compressing and mechanically forcing the shaft to separate into the three legs. After reading some informative posts by forum member Kip on Airforums who is a 30 year plus Airforce aircraft machinist specializing in the body maintenance of aircraft (I’m totally unclear on the nomenclature here) talk about the myriad types of rivets and especially the strengths and weaknesses of them I got curious and did some rudimentary testing of my own. He had commented about the structural differences and I simply riveted some scraps together using one each of these rivets and the pop rivets appeared more sound in yanking, twisting and tweaking tests. Totally unscientific and haphazard for sure.

Olyimpics give a false sense of security as they look like Buck rivets when properly dressed instead of having a hole in the middle.

Nothing beats a well bucked Buck rivet when talking about these three types. While it is rarely possible to use them, it comes down to aesthetics or structure. All can be made feasibly water tight by dipping in trempro prior to setting and being properly set in the appropriate sized hole. Though, in the end, we are hauling rattle traps down the road and I’m going for function over form here. I have used and may use Olympic Rivets again, though not in a structural manner. And I’ll keep a bottle of Captain Tolly’s at hand as well as my suction cup for testing. Which honestly, should be done for all rivets.

Ian

[michellelegs]

Thank you so much for your detailed descriptions of the rivets! I will post pics later today, but my husband is pretty sure they are the buck/ed rivets. Can you recommend the best sealant for the awning leak points? People have posted but not a specific name/number. My husband is a contractor who uses different sealants a lot but wants to make sure he is using the best/correct kind! Thank you!

[RISK]

I would use TremPro 635, but it’s important to make sure the connection is secure as well.

It’s hard to give detailed advice without pictures, though, as each situation often requires a different solution.

Buck rivets can certainly be removed, sometimes you just have to get creative.

For awning support arms I would use SS screws, dipping the threads in trempro prior to insertion and sealing behind the bracket as well. Trempro can be messy but smoothes well with mineral spirits.

Ian

[KYAvion]

Until now, I never paid attention that Vintage Trailer Supply categorizes Olympic Rivets as pop rivets...

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Ol ... ts-179.htm


As far as your Olympic rivets that leaked, do you think it’s possible they were installed without a sealant applied to the rivet? Or maybe they had the rubber washers and there was a failure to seal?

Are these the rivets you prefer? https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Al ... ts-931.htm