Systems Monitor Center

[Johnatron]

If one was to delete the Systems monitor center, what would you do with all of the wires? I’m wanting to put in a mini-split air handler in its place. As much as I would like to keep the Systems monitor center, I fear it will interfere with the wireless capabilities of the A/C. I’m also considering re-locating it at the appropriate distance from the air handler(>5’). Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[KYAvion]

I suppose all you need access to is the fuses, so just some sort of access panel or port to get to them if needed. The kill switch and water heater switch also need to be kept in mind.

[Johnatron]

@KYAvion Sounds logical. I’m unfamiliar with the functionality of this Monitor center, as I haven’t delved into it much. So you’re saying I gotta retain the inline fuses and water heater switch? I can understand that. But what fuses do I need to have access to? Is the battery fuse in there? For the record, I’m planning to replace the 30amp power center with a 50amp PD4560 which includes the converter.

[Salty]

I think defining the original functions of the command center are in order before relocating, so as to better prepare for the move.
1. monitor tank levels
2. monitor battery charge/discharge current
3.turn the water heater on/off
4. turn the potable water pump on/off
5. monitor shore power state, on or off.
6.fuse + power for the three way refrigerator
7.intermediate connection between the battery and the converter/charge controller. This is also where power is routed to the tongue jack I believe.

1. Tank levels.The tank sensor cables come from the tanks under the floor and enter the trailer at the potable water tank opening under the road side bed on a 34V. Three cables, one for each tank then enter the skin under the bed and are routed to the command center. The cables are 7 conductor, 20 gauge cables. For a relocation project, intercepting them at the point of entry would be ideal.The wire harness for the tank monitoring circuit board has a multi-pin connector and so that is easily relocated.Pay attention to the schematic diagram in the owners manual and reconnection is simple.
*note simple, not easy button easy

2. charge/discharge. A shunt or hall sensor can be located anywhere along the battery cable path BEFORE the first branch circuit and then the remote sense reporting cable is routed to the monitoring location

3 and 4. Power cabling for these two appliances runs inside the skin. Relocating the power on switches will either require creative wiring back to the command center or running new cable road side to get to them and then creating a new switch panel . This was my choice.

5. Monitoring shore power state. A variety of solutions here, from a simple light tapped off the 120 VAC in at the power center to a remote panel from a surge protector.

6 and 7. Wire nut,crimp or terminate to your specifications. tie the cables out of the way of any new installations in this area.

[Johnatron]

@Salty Thank you for this.
If I re-locate the module, then I imagine I’ll need to retain the intermediate connection between the battery and converter/charger. You said terminate to my specs, but if the tongue jack gets it’s power from here, then I should keep this in tact, correct? Just need to verify that this is where the jack receives power? Also, is the intermediate connection where I would install the shunt sensor? You said before the branch. But, I’d really like to keep this control module, just relocate it. If I keep the module, but replace the original battery monitor/shunt sensor with a newer version, that would put my mind at ease.

I’ll be replacing my 3-way fridge with a residential 120v, so I’ll terminate and cap off appropriately.

I’ll draw up a schematic as soon as possible, so hopefully you can give me some constructive criticism. Thanks again for your expertise!

[Salty]

Relocating the command center front panel will not require you to do anything with the the four 8 gauge wires coming out of the ceiling. Of the four, 1 is for the fridge(green/blue green??), 1 is B+ supply (Red) from the converter, the third is black, which heads forward to the front bulkhead and to the batteries/jack. The fourth, white, is ground.
The black and red connect together at the kill switch next to the Ammeter and power for the tank sensors, pump and water heater tee off from there.
When relocating the Command center, it goes without saying that you'll need to provide B+ supply and Ground to get the tank sensors to work. Pump and water heater power are on your own ingenuity.
In my case, the OEM Command center frame is larger than where I have placed my new power center, so I need to recreate that panel.
You can place the battery current sensor at the battery, as long as you're willing to route the remote wire to where you want to monitor it, but no further aft than the first branch - in this case, where the red and black meet above the fridge.
As an option, you could run the jack off the batteries. How often do you run the jack? It's a given the jack will pull roughly 10 amps - for? two minutes?
My case is a bit different than yours in that I'm planning solar with a separate charge controller and current sensor for the batteries.
Additionally, I have repurposed that 8 ga. B+ wire to run my 2 way fridge, the kitchen light and the LP/Co2 sensor. (As well as the tank monitors as, while I have terminated the tank sensor cables, I haven't recreated/relocated the command center over the new power center as yet. ) The wire was convenient.
The black 8 ga. wire to the batteries is dormant.

[Johnatron]

This is exactly all of the info I was praying for. Very neighborly of you. Thank you, sir. I plan on running the jack very rarely. The trailer will be parked for roughly 5 years as we build the house. After that, it will be our traveler/guest home. And eventually, our vacation home in the mountains. I could install a power switch between the jack and the battery, if that’s what you were referring to. I’m leaning more towards relocating the control center, maybe above the fridge or under the street side window in the living room. I’ll be building a small entertainment center there, and think it would fit/look nice next to the other electronics. I’m going to dig into it tomorrow with all of this great info.
Now, as far as your solar setup...I’m very interested in doing some initial installs in order to set it up for solar in the not-so-distant future. Looking at investing in a couple of Lithium deep cycle batteries anyways. So, I’m curious as to what I can do in the meantime in order to make the solar install go more smoothly. I’ve been browsing/researching inverters, PV panels,transfer switches, and charge controllers, but that’s as far as I’ve gotten. What do you think about the PD4560’s charge controller in regards to solar input? Would I need to just install another charge controller for solar? For the record, I’ll be holding onto my 3-way fridge, as it works great. Use it to store extra provisions for the time being, but it’ll come in handy when we’re ready to boondock.

[Salty]

I’ll be replacing my 3-way fridge with a residential 120v, so I’ll terminate and cap off appropriately.

???

[Johnatron]

6.fuse + power for the three way refrigerator

[Salty]

What do you think about the PD4560’s charge controller in regards to solar input?

I have no opinion on this, as I'm not familiar with that converter.

Should you keep the three way fridge, you'll need to connect the B+ (red) to the green/blue green wire that feeds the fridge with a 30 Amp fuse inline.