Refrigerator testing?
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wirelessguyny
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Feb 16, 2020 12:29 am
Refrigerator testing?
Hi folks.
I’ve removed all the appliances from my trailer while I work in rebuilding the sub floor. I purchased it about a month ago and it seems to have been sitting for quite some time.
I can’t confirm that the fridge was level but I did plug it into AC power and tried to see if it worked or not.
I believe that after a few hours the temp was in the high 40s but it was a pretty mild day to begin with and I’m not sure how much higher ambient temp really was.
When i power it up I do hear liquid sloshing around after a few minutes. I’m not sure if that is normal good/bad. I tried watching some youtube videos but so far I’m unclear what to do.
I can look and see if i can bypass the control board and just send ac power to the heat element wires and see what happens.
If you have any thoughts/recommendations plz let me know.
Thanks.
I’ve tried to
I’ve removed all the appliances from my trailer while I work in rebuilding the sub floor. I purchased it about a month ago and it seems to have been sitting for quite some time.
I can’t confirm that the fridge was level but I did plug it into AC power and tried to see if it worked or not.
I believe that after a few hours the temp was in the high 40s but it was a pretty mild day to begin with and I’m not sure how much higher ambient temp really was.
When i power it up I do hear liquid sloshing around after a few minutes. I’m not sure if that is normal good/bad. I tried watching some youtube videos but so far I’m unclear what to do.
I can look and see if i can bypass the control board and just send ac power to the heat element wires and see what happens.
If you have any thoughts/recommendations plz let me know.
Thanks.
I’ve tried to
Re: Refrigerator testing?
Do you know what setting the fridge is on? Give it some time and check the temp again.
Razorback (Paul)
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
1987 Avion 34W
1995 Ford F-250 7.3L PowerStroke
I'm a "whosoever"... are you???
-
wirelessguyny
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Feb 16, 2020 12:29 am
Re: Refrigerator testing?
When it stops raining here I’m going to pull it back out again and level it off.
I see the AC wires that run to the heater stack so perhaps I’ll try to make a wire and bypass the controls first. If that doesn’t work it’s possible the piping itself has a leak somewhere.
Since this isn’t freon based, does anyone know if it leaks ir evaporates out or if it just sits there?
I see the AC wires that run to the heater stack so perhaps I’ll try to make a wire and bypass the controls first. If that doesn’t work it’s possible the piping itself has a leak somewhere.
Since this isn’t freon based, does anyone know if it leaks ir evaporates out or if it just sits there?
Re: Refrigerator testing?
This is an RV fridge, right?
First, in addition to needing 120 VAC, RV fridges need 12VDC to power the control board to function.
RV fridges are ammonium based. If there was discoloration (green I believe) of the aluminum under the fridge, it usually is an indication the the ammonium has leaked out. Failing that, check mfr spec on the resistance of your heating element, try hooking up a propane source and see if it will ignite. if it won't ignite, it's usually either the igniter coil or the control board. Those are the common failures. FAIK the propane orifice could be plugged or the gas solenoid isn't working. But if the heater element checks out, it hasn't leaked and it doesn't cool on AC or propane, start with a control board.
First, in addition to needing 120 VAC, RV fridges need 12VDC to power the control board to function.
RV fridges are ammonium based. If there was discoloration (green I believe) of the aluminum under the fridge, it usually is an indication the the ammonium has leaked out. Failing that, check mfr spec on the resistance of your heating element, try hooking up a propane source and see if it will ignite. if it won't ignite, it's usually either the igniter coil or the control board. Those are the common failures. FAIK the propane orifice could be plugged or the gas solenoid isn't working. But if the heater element checks out, it hasn't leaked and it doesn't cool on AC or propane, start with a control board.
1987 34V
2000 Ford F250
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
2000 Ford F250
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
Re: Refrigerator testing?
Hey All,
I am restoring a '74 Avion La Grande and in testing the refrigerator the knob in the bottom of fridge won't switch to gas position. It seems locked up. It switches to Electric but doesn't seem to be getting cool after an hour or so. I know these can take long so I'll leave it plugged in for 4-5hrs and check again. Does anyone know of any issues that this sounds like? I'm hitting the road in two weeks so I want to get this resolved asap.
Thanks! Bryan
I am restoring a '74 Avion La Grande and in testing the refrigerator the knob in the bottom of fridge won't switch to gas position. It seems locked up. It switches to Electric but doesn't seem to be getting cool after an hour or so. I know these can take long so I'll leave it plugged in for 4-5hrs and check again. Does anyone know of any issues that this sounds like? I'm hitting the road in two weeks so I want to get this resolved asap.
Thanks! Bryan