Peeling skin at vents, seams etc.

[Soonergirl66]

Just purchased an Avion 1966 T20 in great condition. Everything is original, except a freestanding AC unit that was installed in the space previously occupied by the closet beside the door. Most all of the items on our to do list are cosmetic rather than functional. At the top of the list is cleaning, refinishing the interior skin, replacing upholstery, cushions, bedding and curtains, and whitewash refinishing of woodwork and cabinets. Her is a pic of the bunk room ceiling vent. My question is this: what is the best way to prep the interior skin for a new coat

of paint? I’m planning to use zolotone (spelling?) followed by SW one coat satin finish “snowbound”.

[silverloaf]

Here is a posting from May, 8, 2019, titled "Peeling Interior Paint". There is a cleaning process, followed by bonding primer designed for bare aluminum.

https://www.aviontrailers.net/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=993

If in doubt, find a Sherwin Williams Industrial Coatings (aka: paint) store in your area and explain your situation.

[Soonergirl66]

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I had read these posts and had some concerns. How much of the vinyl must be removed and how should this be done? I don’t want to mar or scratch the aluminum back sanding or scraping ( do no harm) — a future owner may want a mirror finish some day

Would it be better to use a chemical process and remove all of he vinyl from each If the entire affected panels? Or can I just mechanically remove just the loose vinyl carefully?

I have purchased a quart of zolatone to apply to just the bare aluminum areas, after first priming. Then a coat SW latex paint to apply to the entire skin after that. Ahh, decisions, decisions. Thanks in advance.

[silverloaf]

Frankly, I wouldn't worry about protecting for someone's future actions. It's a ton of work to remove all the vinyl. What you are left with are sharp metal edges and lots of holes. Besides, any bonding/etching paint you apply now will take serious effort to remove later.

You might try using a razor blade scraper. Pull a peeling piece back far enough until it feels sticking to the skin. Hold the scraper at a slight angle to the peel and pull it against the blade. Ideally, all cut edges will be secure to the skin.

After applying the bonding/etching primer, I would use an exterior grade filler (eg: spackling) and apply it to the vinyl edge. Sand it down to a uniform taper to the skin.

[Salty]

Wouldn't Bondo be a better edge blending material? Sets up faster, adheres to aluminum better and sands easier.
If you have ever watched any of the motortrend car shows, when you see them sandblast a body and then skin it with this pale green filler, that would likely be ideal, but getting that in small quantities is likely difficult plus there may be a price penalty.

[Soonergirl66]

Thanks for the bondo suggestion. After applying the etching automotive primer to bare aluminum, my plan is to apply bindi and sand, followed by Zinsser Smart Prime over the old Zolatone before a final coat of a one coat latex by SW. starting on the interior restoration this week.

[Soonergirl66]

Smart Prime is a water based low VOC product made by Rust-Oleum. I’ll be using it to prime the cabinets too.

ABOUT SMART PRIME®
Get the ultimate performance with our most advanced interior/exterior primer: Rust-Oleum® Zinsser® Smart Prime® Primer. This next-generation, low-VOC, water-based formula is the one primer you need for every professional or DIY project.
Oil-base performance in an advanced water-base formula
Primer for all projects
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[Salty]

Progress??