Zip dee bracket help
Zip dee bracket help
I took of my zip dee awning bracket to reseal and fix leaks and what I found was 2 sets of holes and rivets along the seam?
The bracket was attached using the upper holes. The rivets keep the bracket from sitting flush with the skin.
I assume I should remove the rivets?
Does anyone know which set of holes should the bracket be screwed into?
1976 avion legrande 31
Not sure why the image is rotated? It’s not on my phone?
The bracket was attached using the upper holes. The rivets keep the bracket from sitting flush with the skin.
I assume I should remove the rivets?
Does anyone know which set of holes should the bracket be screwed into?
1976 avion legrande 31
Not sure why the image is rotated? It’s not on my phone?
76 legrande 31ft
-
silverloaf
- Posts: 763
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:01 pm
Re: Zip dee bracket help
It appears your awning might have been an aftermarket install, not OEM. No manufacturer in their right mind would install a bracket directly over rivets. Also, it appears from all the holes that they missed the vertical wall support.
It is important to have the bracket setting squarely against the skin. Use a 5/32" bit and drill out the rivets that are in the way. Determine the location of the wall support and accurately center the bracket between the mounting holes. Use #10 stainless steel sheet metal screws at a slight angle into the wall support.
On my upper bracket, there were 2 mounting holes at the top but none at the bottom. Under load, the bracket rocked in and out until it ripped the screws out of the wall support.
To fix this, I drilled a single hole for a #8 screw, centered in the lower 3rd of the bracket. I had to do a little machining around the hole to get screw head clearance to the cast-in gussets in the bracket. I applied some solvent-based, exterior-grade RV sealant to the back of the bracket and tightened the 3 screws down uniformly and snuggly. The sealant compensates for the difference in curvature between the bracket and the skin. Once cured, it provides additional adhesion for the bracket.
It's been two years now and the bracket is rock solid to the skin. See if this works for you or maybe you have a different situation?
It is important to have the bracket setting squarely against the skin. Use a 5/32" bit and drill out the rivets that are in the way. Determine the location of the wall support and accurately center the bracket between the mounting holes. Use #10 stainless steel sheet metal screws at a slight angle into the wall support.
On my upper bracket, there were 2 mounting holes at the top but none at the bottom. Under load, the bracket rocked in and out until it ripped the screws out of the wall support.
To fix this, I drilled a single hole for a #8 screw, centered in the lower 3rd of the bracket. I had to do a little machining around the hole to get screw head clearance to the cast-in gussets in the bracket. I applied some solvent-based, exterior-grade RV sealant to the back of the bracket and tightened the 3 screws down uniformly and snuggly. The sealant compensates for the difference in curvature between the bracket and the skin. Once cured, it provides additional adhesion for the bracket.
It's been two years now and the bracket is rock solid to the skin. See if this works for you or maybe you have a different situation?
" Faith can move mountains, but don't be surprised if God hands you a shovel.”
Silverloaf (Bob)
Dawsonville, GA
1988 30P
Silverloaf (Bob)
Dawsonville, GA
1988 30P