converter replacement time...

[Kep]

Yes same breakers for the replacements on equal or similar loads. I would just run them to the battery post.

I have been working for the transit system for 29 years. Not too much longer to go. I am building our retirement home and needed a trailer to improve our efficiency so that's why I'm here LOL.

So, I should mount the 30amp fuses on the battery terminals? From what I gather, it’s bwat to mount fuses as close to the power source as possible(ie.the terminals). What fuses would you recommend? Can I mount both of these on the positive terminal?

No connect them in a clean safe environment. But yes as close as possible to the source. Use the same amp rating as already provided.

[RISK]

Just my 2 cents, there's a better way........

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=865

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=981

I like your “sense” Ian. That looks great. Yes, there is always a better way. What terminal blocks did you use? After researching your setup, I see you used a DIN rail. I wasn’t aware of such a thing before. Thanks for sharing.

That was Salty making sense, not me. Just want to make sure the credit goes where it is due...
Sally forth...

Ian

[Johnatron]

Just my 2 cents, there's a better way........

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=865

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=981

I like your “sense” Ian. That looks great. Yes, there is always a better way. What terminal blocks did you use? After researching your setup, I see you used a DIN rail. I wasn’t aware of such a thing before. Thanks for sharing.

That was Salty making sense, not me. Just want to make sure the credit goes where it is due...
Sally forth...

Ian

Too right, my mistake. Good stuff, @Salty I’d like to replicate your setup, so I’m wondering about your combination of terminals.

[Salty]

Phoenix and Conta-clip terminal strips for the bulk of the work. Size is dependent upon wire gauge expected. There is some overlap, for example, I have some larger terminals that will accept 6 - 12 gauge wire. Also, you can insert more than 1 wire in the terminal if need be.
For stranded marine wire, ferrules are a must IMHO. Generally, folks selling this type of terminal strip also sell ferrules. Do a search online
here's a couple of links:
https://www.phoenixcontact.com/online/p ... 9d3af232aa
http://contaclipinc.com/products/range- ... ts-us.html

[Johnatron]

Phoenix and Conta-clip terminal strips for the bulk of the work. Size is dependent upon wire gauge expected. There is some overlap, for example, I have some larger terminals that will accept 6 - 12 gauge wire. Also, you can insert more than 1 wire in the terminal if need be.
For stranded marine wire, ferrules are a must IMHO. Generally, folks selling this type of terminal strip also sell ferrules. Do a search online
here's a couple of links:
https://www.phoenixcontact.com/online/p ... 9d3af232aa
http://contaclipinc.com/products/range- ... ts-us.html

Thank you so much. You totally opened my eyes to the world of DIN rails. Those parts are waiting in my Amazon cart. I got a lot going on with this renovation, so I’ll have to put this on the back burner for now.

[slowmover]

Simple has its virtues. I’ve long stayed with ANCOR or BLUE SEA just because:

1). It’s a step up from RV or Auto Supply Houses, but

2). It’s available retail (WEST MARINE & others), and can be bought in bulk cheaply online.

3). 10 or 15-yrs from now replacements won’t be a problem as this design type tends to be universal. It’s materials & construction is what’s the real jump.

The stuff linked above looks great. But then they get bought out . . . .

I’m not saying it’s wrong. But some trailers stick around a family a long time. Mines 30 years young this year and that makes it young in this group. It needs these upgrades (converter done but more planned ).

What did any of you buy from China in 1993?

Will I still be around in 20? Or maybe it’s my less interested son. A grandson. Neither of whom is willing, let’s say. So they hire in a fellow AIN’T interested in high zoot.

RV/Auto is good enough to get by. Emergency. Straight swap. Marine quality via what offshore sailers prefer is far enough afield for me.

Spend on bigger wiring. Can’t touch ANCOR. That duplex wiring is great. Use the Blue Sea 3% voltage drop calculator for DC. Size AC appropriately larger.

By the way, USCG won’t allow soldering for marine applications. They vibrate and shake apart. ANCOR has you covered (everything but RV specific). Don’t buy AMazon low quality look alike, please. (That’s for you helping your EX brother in law. As he’s moving out of state ).

As to tools, hydraulic crimpers aren’t expensive (as example). We aren’t pros. There’s a very good thing about one-time-use Harbor Freight or China tools. Perfect for this. The tool is the job. So while the window is open on affordable, use it.

.

[Salty]

As to tools, hydraulic crimpers aren’t expensive (as example). We aren’t pros. There’s a very good thing about one-time-use Harbor Freight or China tools. Perfect for this. The tool is the job. So while the window is open on affordable, use it.

Please elaborate. Using a hydraulic crimper for 10a? 12ga?

for 8 through 4/0 I can see a tool like this:
https://www.amazon.com/PENSON-CAYQK0070 ... 8806&psc=1

or this:
https://www.arc-zone.com/Cable-Crimper- ... gJo_PD_BwE
I have used this one. less stuff to break.

[slowmover]

It was an example. I picked one up to do 6-awg and heavier. Same is true for for any die crimpers. Less expensive than professional, but better than box store offerings.

No one takes the job lightly.